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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,184 Likes: 1964
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,184 Likes: 1964 |
Yes, fragile is a big issue for me, too, terc. I misunderstood what you meant by "safe".
I've repaired dents myself, and it's a slow, tedious job the way I do it.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Reamers that I am familiar with are all cylindrical ground on the sides, cutting only on the tapered portion. This includes expansion or adjustable reamers I am familiar with. Did you have to back off the flutes on the side to get the reamer to cut in this manner. It would take extra ordinary force to get a normal reamer to cut on the sides as they are intentionally made not to. This would b quite apt to bulge the barrel in this thin area.
Miller/TN I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
2-piper, I'm not sure what you're talking about. I use adjustable reamers that a fellow gave me or ones I buy from Brownells. They would have to cut on the front edge where it's sharp. If you're jug choking a barrel with no choke, then what you measure at the end is what the barrel in back 6 or 8". If it's .050 thick at the muzzles and it only has a IC choke, or .015 constriction, then the walls farther back are .035. If .005 on a side was removed it would be .010 more, or now a IMP/Mod. I'm not saying any barrel can be jug choked. It's up to each owner to decide if it's possible. But as said, there's not a whole lot of pressure left and you aren't gonna blow the barrels. Maybe dent them, but I'm still shooting the ones I did with no problems.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Paul; Yes whether a barrel can be jug choked is dependent entirely on how much wall one has to work with & how much you desire to enlarge it. I was not speaking of this.
What I was speaking of was the operation of the reamer itself. Perhaps I did not understand exactly what you were saying. Just as a standard drill bit cuts on the end & not on the sides like an End Mill a reamer is sharpened to cut on the taper. The straight portion of the reamer body is ground cylindrical so as to Not Further Enlarge the hole in reaming.
What I understood you to say was that you placed the reamer in the bore & expanded it out tight against the walls which would mean it had to cut on the portion which was designed NOT to cut. To use an expansion reamer efficiently in this manner the lands on the flutes along its body length would need to be backed off to give relief for it to cut properly. Failure to do this would put extreme pressure on the inside of the bore & due to the thinness in this area could indeed result in the bore being bulged rather than metal being removed by cutting.
I put in over 35 years in machine shops, as a machinist, & have never seen a reamer designed to cut in this manner without modification. I have a set of Brownell's Choke Reamers & this includes them.
I fully agree with your statement "They would have to cut on the front edge where it's sharp". The way I was understanding your original ;ost on this though it sounded as if you were not using the Front Edge, but rather the portion behind that edge where it is not sharp. That was what I wanted clarification on.
Miller/TN I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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