The key to the Titebond or other wood glues is a clean, close fitting joint, awareness of open time, and correct clamping to completely close the joint without excessive squeeze out that can starve the joint. Compressed air can be used to get it deep into a split or crack, but cover surrounding areas. I like surgical rubber tubing or strips of rubber inner tube for clamping the irregular surfaces of gun stocks. You can quickly wipe off most of the excess squeeze out with a moist cloth and then wrap the area with waxed paper so the rubber tubing won't stick to the wood.
Epoxies are better when there is any gap to fill or bridge, but it takes a lot of practice to do a dye job that will blend perfectly with the final finish. It was due to seeing so many very visible glue and epoxy repairs on guns that led me to experiment to see for myself what worked best. Attempting to break some of my glue joints gave me confidence that my repairs are unlikely to fail under recoil, etc. The polyurethane glues foam out and expand to also fill gaps, but they are messy and affect finishing unless removed by sanding as I've already noted. I think I am going to really like the Titebond III because it is even closer to the color of walnut, the factory specs claim it is stronger, and it is even more water resistant.
