pomofo,
Now is not the time to get really concerned about the cost of repair.
It may not take as much as it looks like now. You can take it one part at a time, from maybe different sources. I have a tipup German rifle that had one leg of the top lever spring broken. As a "make do" fix, I just jammed a leaf from another broken spring into the "V". That was 25 years ago and I have used it since, even killing deer with it. Your problem might not be that simple, but it might. This is sort of a standard spring anyway and I think Dixie Gun Works may some in stock( 2or3 types). The photo showed the right hammer missing, if you don't have it, that may be a problem to "match", but one that "works" can likely be found. The oil soaked wood can be a problem. I suggest you check closely for loose coming ribs and cracks in the action, these can be insurmountable problems, if they exist. If you don't insist on a re-finish to "factory new", you will save a lot of money. From the photos, you might have a pretty unusual type of drilling. It has exterior hammers but the selector is not common for hammer drillings. This leads to the possibility that the rifle fires from a separate hammer on the trigger plate. I suggest you join the German Gun Collectors Assn. and buy reprints of a series of articles by John Laborde, discussing different drilling types. I think I would be pretty excited to have it. Try to make clear photos of all the markings, even if you have to have help.
Mike
It's a pretty ingenious system, took me several minutes to figure out how it worked. The little button on the selector has to be depressed, only then can the selector switch between shotgun and rifle. Here's a picture of the locks, you can see that the right hammer has a little nub below the face of the hammer.
When the rifle barrel is selected, it pushes out this little square block ahead of the rifle firing pin face.
Pulling the trigger releases the hammer, and the lower nub hits the square piece which hits the face of the firing pin, which can then strike the primer. That block also keeps the main hammer face from striking the right shotgun barrel firing pin. Switch back to shotgun and the block is withdrawn into the action so that the firing pin can strike the shotgun firing pin and not the rifle.
It's a pretty neat little gun, lots of patina and dried grease but no real rust or pitting. All the proof marks I could find are here.
Both shotgun barrels have nitro proofs but there's none that I can see on the rifle barrel. It looks like the 8.7mm marking is stamped on top of an old marking that was polished away. The eagle doesn't look to be either the Reichsadler or the Bundesadler, so I'm assuming these proofs date from the Weimar era, although I wouldn't be surprised if the gun is actually older.
