doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Box Bird gun setup?

I am looking at a gun that I suspect may have been set up for box bird shooting. It is a 1920's British O/U set up as follows:

1. Double tapered file cut solid Rib

2. Triggers switched per original factory order (Front fires left lock as if set up for a left-hander--top strap cast for a righty)

3. Weight 6 3/4 lbs.

4. "Grouse choked" (.039 front trigger/.023 back trigger)

5. Slight matched overbore .005

6. 2 1/2 chambers, 28" barrels

7. DAC 2 1/8

My working theory is that the first barrel fires the first XF shot at the bird with the greatest chance of disabling it, and the second, rear, trigger is slightly more open for a follow up shot, if needed. Points #3 and #6 seem to cut against the theory, and perhaps it was some sort of a compromise order. I would love to hear other theories as to why someone would set up a gun in this fashion.

I doubt a "pigeon" gun would be that light or be limited to 1 1/8 oz. of shot. That choke combo would be useful for driven birds coming at you.

To light for a pigeon gun.

What is it? Any pics?

I'm always interested in British OUs and would love to see it.

Thanks,

OWD

I would bet it is a "Driven bird" gun
Mike

Owen,
I wouldn't set myself as a Pigeon expert, but i have shot Box birds about 20 times over the years, and with some very good shots. I knew of nobody who shot extra full first, and a more open choke for 2nd barrel. Most ran Mod to IM first barrel, and full the 2nd. I liked IM first barrel, and my 2nd barrel to be the Hammer of God, as that bird is heading to the fence. .025/.040 was my choice.

I agree with HighWall's observations and, a pigeon gun will almost never have 2 1/2" chambers. This gun's too light, and the barrels are on the too-short side. Pigeon guns are built to handle 3 3/4 - 1 1/4 loads, generally, and being British, proofed for same. Few pigeon guns would have a choke as open as .023".

Pigeons are going away, much/most of the time, and any difference in choking of the two barrels would favor the more open one on the first shot. Incoming birds are the opposite. One would use the more choked barrel first, then the more open barrel second. I do this without exception on incoming doves and ducks.

All these things taken into consideration together tells me this was never built to be a trap pigeon gun.

SRH

Most likely not a pigeon gun as English pigeon guns usually weighed slightly below the 8 lb. maximum allowed weight & were proofed for an 1 1/4 oz load.

Maybe a gun set up for driven red grouse by someone who preferred a pigeon style rib. I've read that the first shot at driven red grouse is normally taken well in front of the shooting butts.

Hopefully one of our UK contributors will comment.

Any incoming birds in groups are best shot like that. Take the first bird with the tightest choked barrel as far out as you can cleanly kill it, then take the next incomer with the second, more openly choked, barrel. Done well, both birds fall in front of you.

SRH

The weight, chambers and barrel length do cut against the theory as mentioned in my OP, but the other configuration choices seem odd for a game gun. I think opinion is settling on a driven bird gun, but I am hung up on the reversed triggers. Why would someone order a right handed gun with left hand triggers?

It is a Boss O/U that I am considering and the vendor put forth the theory of it being a "box bird gun" which may be incorrect.