My latest V. Bernadelli S. Uberto I imported by Charles Daly has only whetted my appetite for a true "best gun".
What I want, is a sound, attractive, used "best gun" , that is:
1. A sidelock
Nothing fundamentally wrong with this wish. Just be aware that there is a wide range in quality of sidelocks. You will need to educate yourself in judging the gun as an individual. You must learn to iden tify the gun's maker and the value the market attributes to that fact; Brand Value. You must learn to identify the gun's Original Quality grade. You must learn to judge the gun's Current Condition level. These three factors will allow you to peg the gun's current value reasonably closely.
2. Made to very high, hand made standards
That is what "best work guns" are.
3. Is a light game gun of approximately six and a half pounds, or slightly more.
The average Brit game gun weighs 6 1/2#, balances 4 1/2" in front of the front trigger, has an unmounted swing effort of 1.45, and a mounted swing effort of 6.4. These characteristics may or may not suit you as an individual. So, you may or may not want a Brit game gun.
4. Made in the pattern of the best English sidelock "best guns" from Purdey, Holland and Holland, or Boss.
"Best work gun" is a standard of quality of design, material, and workmanship. There is room for varying styles shaping and embellishment. Keep in mind that any Brit master gunmaker was fully capable of getting out a best gun based on his own work, his in-workers, and contracted out-workers. The trick was to secure commissions for such work.
5. Cosmetic flaws are acceptable, so long as they don't detract from the overall experience of owning a true "best gun".
You are into Current Condition with this issue. Cosmetic issues are easier to deal with than are mechanical issues. I'd suggest that you make very sure that your first "best work" gun is sound mechanically
What's the lowest price of entry into the realm of a true "best gun"?
$230 will buy you a little known continental maker, retailer, or unmarked "guild" best work gun in wall-hanger current condition. OK, I know that is not what you meant. So, BV1-OQ1-CC4 = $16,000; BV1 = Boss, H&H, Purdey, and Woodward. "Same as" gun but BV2 maker = $12,000. BV3-OQ1-CC4 = $8,000, BV4-OQ1-CC4 = $4,000, and BV5-OQ1-CC4 = $2,000. All the same level of quality and condition.
To further the discussion, what are the price and quality differences of examples of a good, sound, used sidelock "best gun" from the U.K., Spain, and Italy, or anyplace else in the world a true "best gun" would come from?
See BV3, BV4, and BV5.
Any opinions of what I should look for, would be much appreciated.
Be happy with the nice, sound gun you have until you have the means to buy what you want in sound mechanical condition and the knowledge to know. Read a bunch of books on the Brit gun trade. Start with Dig Hadoke's "Vintage Guns" and "Boxlocks" books. Study auction catalogs and results. Understand that the chances of missing out on a bargain are far lower (unlikely) than the chances of buying a money pit (very likely).
Drop me and e-mail address if you want the full charts on values.
Post back with any questions.
DDA
