Stan,
I have never seen what I described as "chipped colors" on anything save Darne R10s with cyanide colors.
The cyanide process is different than the bone pack process, and while both harden the surface of the steel, that is about all the similarity between them.
Putting a thin coat of clear lacquer on case colors does exactly what you say a coat of oil does. But, as the engineers say, there is no free lunch:

http://www.gunsinternational.com/guns-fo...un_id=100911839

Lacquer that has seen some time and use, ends up looking like this. Two of my Darnes have been recoated, one with the baking lacquer that Brownell's sells, or, used to sell, I only bought it once. But, that product is quite tough. The nice thing about a rattle can job over the colors is you will have case colors to look at for years to come, and 15 minutes in a pan of lacquer thinner will clean it all off. I've used the Krylon Crystal Clear you see in art stores for this task.

Don't be tempted to put it on thick. It looks better, thin.

Of coarse, you still get wear on the edges with a coated gun that sees heavy use, but, it is better than the colors fading away completely IMHO. I like crisp appearing colors with a bit of edge wear better, than, say, 10-25% colors remaining.

Best,
Ted