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Joined: Jul 2017
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Sorry, on a tablet so I have shared a link to the folder on google drive where I have photos of the Cashmore rifle I encountered.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2s-yc-xHRVtWlhnVDRVd1JsbWs

I have no experience with hammer guns or double guns, though appreciate old firearms. I have an associate with this gun and I have a possibility to buy it. What's it worth? Not so much in $ (though that too). Are they any good? Will I be committing heracy if I were so game as to fire it?

From what I can tell is nitro proof, full choke barrles. Barrels marked as made by W.M.Cashmore Birmingham. The serial number is 14380 which from what I can tell puts it circa 1910?

The wood quality seems very good, though is worn. Barrel bores are in very good condition.the steel does not seem to be pitted, though I imagine a reblue would do it good. Embossing/engraving is as shown in photos. Any help appreciated. Anyone who knows how to value such a rifle, feedback would be appreciated.

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Cashmores are great guns. I have a couple and love them. Stalones on this site uses a hammer to win sporting clays titles. Also don't reblue; they look better with the patina of well cared for age.


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Welcome to the board.

First off, rifle or shotgun? Lot of difference in value. I don't see any rifle sights and you mention "full choke" barrels. Clear this up and I'll make a valuation.

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12 gauge shotgun.there is a single bead as with many sxs. So correct, it is a shotgun. (I didn't know that Cashmore made rifles, if I get into collecting that sounds like something I would want to get my hands on).

As for getting a rough idea of price, if there are not enough photos in the link let me know and I will try to get more. But will likely be a few weeks before I see said gun again. The most notable unfortunate damage to the gun is that the left hand side hammer has been brazed back on after it somehow became detached.

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Cornell Pubs has repro 1903 and 1910 catalogs
http://www.cornellpubs.com/old-guns/historic-cashmore.php

It is possible that Robert Beach may have information on the gun
http://www.cornellpubs.com/research-your-gun.php

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I have his younger brother serial no 20490.
I paid $ 250.00 au. I would not give the same for this gun.
On looking at the pictures again, that one is not in as good condition as mine. Not only is the hammer welded but it is not the same as the other & the screw is not original.
O.M

Last edited by moses; 07/07/17 06:39 PM.
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Based on your description and the photos, here is an evaluation of value. The Cashmore name is rated as Brand Value level three (BV3) by the market. The gun appears to be an Original Quality level seven (OQ7) gun. And, the appearance and description seem to fit Current Condition level 8, "Marginally shootable, significent repairs required soon or poor restoration."

BV3-OQ7-CC8 = $300. Note that this evaluation assumes the gun is safe to shoot.

Hope that helps.

DDA

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Thanks Drew, will look into that for sure.
A little disapointing if this osne isn't worth much, but then it appears to have had a hard life. Still would be an interesting piece to start a collection for someone like me with not much coin about me (university student). The bright side is that if it has limited market value I won't mind using it from time to time. The owner tells me it has many foxes and pigeons to its name.

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Thanks heaps.

It is definitely shootable, was stored well since its last use many years ago. However am interested, where do you go to reztore such a gun? I'd love to restore it!

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Might help with a smith recommendation if you told us roughly where you are.


The world cries out for such: he is needed & needed badly- the man who can carry a message to Garcia
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Near Melbourne, Australia.

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Originally Posted By: Operator1342
Near Melbourne, Australia.


Hmm, okay. That's not too handy for most of us. There are a couple guys who post here from Australia. Their names escape me at the moment. What you might do is start a new thread with a title like "looking for good SxS smith is Australia" to get their attention.

What you don't want to do is take it to any gunsmith who isn't well qualified to work on SxS. They aren't like other guns.


The world cries out for such: he is needed & needed badly- the man who can carry a message to Garcia
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Cadet may know of someone to do the work.
Contact Whitehorse arms in Melbourne, they will know.
However, I would say, "leave it where it is".
You will spend too much money on it in the end, for something with little intrinsic value.
Save a the sponduli & look for a better condition buy.
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I have used Kevin Sharpe and been very happy with his work

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Operator, be sure you get pricing for any proposed work and be sure you are OK with not getting you money back if you decide to sell.

As a former student with a passion for guns, I understand your pain.

Might I suggest you save up double to triple the cost of the Cashmore and find a good condition Webley & Scott 700 for your first gun.

DDA

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Thanks for all the advice.

@Rocketman, I do have a vested emotional interest in this firearm so I might get it anyway even though it will have quite some costs involved.

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@Docbill, I am going to sound ignorant here and ask what advice there is on looking after a double gun without re-bluing?
All the firearms I have had until this one are quite modern and if needed have been re-blued, I tried to search this site and a few other forums but have found little specific information on how to maintain exposed steel on antique firearms such as this Cashmore.

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Some of the loveliest guns I've ever seen have been Cashmores. This isn't one, sorry: it's very plain, and while it appears not to have been monkeyed with, that busted hammer is ugly. If you want to shoot ducks with it, you'll need bismuth etc; if it was damascus, you could legally use lead.
If it has sentimental value, go ahead and buy it, but don't spend money on it - you'd only be over-capitalising. Keep it lightly oiled; maybe use it as a project to learn some simple refinishing and repair.
I trust it's wall thicknesses, chamber length etc are all ok... I may be able to help you measure that. I'm in Kyneton, and work in Ballarat, if that helps.
Join the local Vintagers if you're into this sort of thing and want to learn and see more.

Last edited by cadet; 08/07/17 12:44 AM.
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Call Brad Bachelder - 1-616-459-3636.

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Cashmore guns are usually strongly made and he specialised in live pigeon trap guns. He had a lot of connections with Australia and it seems that as many turn up there as here in the U.K. Quite a bit of Cashmore history in 'Birmingham Gunmakers' by Tate if you can source a copy. Lagopus.....

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It has had a rough history and I am disappointed by the damaged hammer in particular. From what I could tell there were plenty made that were even plainer than this one was. But at the same time, there were several models much more ornately decorated than this one. But I also did not have the best information, so I may well be wrong. But much of the detail is faded on this one.

As for wall thickness, chamber length etc. I took it to Rehfisch in Ballarat who confirmed it is 2 3/4 chamber length and the flats do have the choking and maximum load marked on them (do not remember it off the top of my head). It is on face, there is still (just barely) room between the barrel flats and the action so it just needs the bight tightened a little and it should be fine in that regards. But help with checking the wall thickness would be appreciated. Do you know if the gunsmith that Rehfisch uses is any good with antiques?

I am more interested in firearms for their individual history than overall significance if that makes sense? So I quite like this one just because in its own way, what makes it rough and ugly also makes it interesting. Plus I am sometimes disappointed when a firearm is in particularly great condition because to me, it feel in some way like it never got to live a full life. I mean, if a firearm isn't being fired, it isn't really fulfilling its purpose.

One day I would like a more ornate collection in better condition. However this one I would like to do some minor restoration, look after it but have it as an interesting piece that I am happy to still use for clays and maybe foxing.

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