doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com Old Belgian Hammer Double top lever screw removal

It's a Crescent "Bridge Gun Co" 12 ga. that I'm rehabbing into a"functioning" wall hanger. No matter what I try the top lever screw won't budge.The screw has been severely buggered (partly guilty) Tried to soak in Kroil for past 2 wks, gently tapping area w/pean hammer-no go, also tried heat but so far zip. I'm reluctant to drill/tap for Allen screw, as I don't know if I can replace the original. Any advise deeply appreciate.

If its a low value gun its always possible to replace the original; though you might have to cut new threads, but that might be your last resort.

Peen the screw slot to as best condition you can make it and carefully fit a turn screw blade to the slot - for tough screws i prefer a turn screw with a shorter shank and at least an oval handle as i can put more pressure on the handle without it hurting my hand, carefully clamp the gun up and then put the turn screw in the slot and exert downwards pressure only (ideally your turn screw should be bottoming out in the slot while touching both sides of the slot) i then normally i have a pair of grips on the flat shank and keeping downwards pressure with most of my weight on the turnscrew i then try to minutely tighten the screw, then back it off, i have had guns where i have done this, heat, oil, and tried again every day for a week; and most screws will move eventually weather that's by coming out or shearing. Only advice i can give you as that's how i do it.

You also might try securing the action in drill press vise, install a well fitting bit in the press chuck. Keep downward pressure with the press feed handle and hand turn the drill press with the belt. usually will break the screw loose, sometimes it will break the bit or the screw.

I am not sure what the shape of the head of your screw is like. Many screws have the head sides tapered quite a bit toward the shank. If the screw driver takes up the entire slot when entering the slot, the inserted screw driver could catch the screw hole sides, making removal very difficult.

I am not sure what the shape of the head of your screw is like. Many screws have the head sides immediately tapered quite a bit toward the shank. If the screw driver takes up the entire slot when entering the slot, the inserted screw driver could catch the screw hole sides, making removal very difficult.

Right hand or left hand thread??

WELCOME to the site on your first posting

Mike

Another helpful trick (sometimes)...Fit a screw driver bit to the slot and then put a small amt of grit compound (valve grinding compound) on the tip of the blade.
When you then put the screwdriver blade/tip back into the screw slot it'll be an extra tight fit and the compound will give some extra grab betw the two as you attempt to back the screw out. Hopefully keeping the blade from backing out of the slot.

The driver bit used in a drill press or mill is the best option IMO. Lets you put extreme downward force on the bit so it won't backout and torque is easily applied in just the right amts by hand on the quill of the machine.

Heat helps. Get it hot enough to get some smoke curling from the screw/part junction.
I put a brass, sometimes steel rod on the screw head. Then heat the rod above the surface of the gun and let the heat travel along the rod to the screw.
It avoids putting a flame right on the surface of the gun.

An electric soldering gun works well too,,the pistol grip type for putting some heat right onto the head of the screw w/o touching the surrounding surfaces. (I know it's a wall hanger but no use butchering the thing)
A blob of solder tinned to the soldering iron point helps transfer the heat nicely.

In addition to Kutter's advice, it is sometimes helpful to tighten the screw before trying to back it out. Sometimes, this seems to "break it loose" from whatever bond is holding it.
Mike

Many thanks to all for the great suggestions.
I've tried most of 'em with no success. Will give the intense heat via rod on screw hd.a try. Not sure what Skeettx means re thread direction. I've tried pressuring CW and CCW but it won't budge. All other bolts and screws I have removed from gun came out CCW.
Thanks again.

Heat is a huge help, if you can apply it properly, as Kutter advised. I have a friend who is a master welder, gets called by nuclear power plants to do things that "can't be done". On my farm I have wrung off exhaust manifold bolts more an once, mostly because I just didn't have the time to wait for weeks while penetrant did it's work. He has welded a "handle" onto the remaining piece of bolt, way down in a blind hole, and screwed it out every time. It's the heat that breaks it loose.

SRH