doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com etching twist barrels

I am getting ready to re-do the stub twist barrels on an old shotgun.Has anyone used anything other than ferric chloride acid to bring out the twist pattern?I've been reading alot about it on this forum but have not seen another method yet.Thanks,Mike

the late Tony Treadwell used cooper sulfate (root killer in a rural hardware/farm supply)and got great results

http://www.lulu.com/gb/en/shop/tony-trea...t-20115603.html

the only warning - at least the early versions of the book had a mistake- and said two cups (actually said mugs) of it - his website said three tablespoons- the heavier concentration will over etch

Mike, You do not need to etch BEFORE browning as the pattern witll come out as well with normal browning. I have tried Copper Sulfate and HCL/HNO3 BOTH AND CANNOT TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN FINAL PATTERNS AND RESULTS. The chemicals in your browning solution will do the "Etching"

Ferric Chloride (Radio Shack) 5 second dip in etching solution. I use Laurel Mountain Forge.
These are from an 1899 L.C. Smith hammer gun.

I don't bring the finish up more than this on my old guns, just enough to show the pattern.

I use copper sulfate (stump remover from Lowe's) for Nitre bluing.

JDW So you are saying you just dip your barrels for 5 seconds in ferric Chloride from Radio Shack. What do you mean you use Laurel Mountain Forge? Any specific prepping before dipping?
What container do you use to hold the solution for dipping.
Thanks for any more specifics.

FeCL (10-15%)will help bring the contrast in the figure AFTER the browning PROCESS as it will remove the Ferric Oxide more from the steel portion than the Iron.

AND, you do not need this PVC pipe apparatus. Just brush it on the bbl with a nylon brush, let it set about 30 sec to a minute and card it off with wet steel wool.

You guys are WAY overcomplicating this procedure.

I learned how to do rust bluing from Dr. Gaddy's posts. Very informative.
You can look it up through this site.

My etching solution is made from 4" diameter PVC with a solvent welded bottom cap and a solvent welded coupler fitting that has threads for a cap to screw on.
I used 15% by volume etching solution and 85% distilled water in a 36" PVC that has a line mark for 34 so it covers 32" barrels.

Here's a different take. The Original Parker Process calls for an initial etch, a five minute one with battery acid. I do this. After the etch the barrels are rinsed well, dried, and gone over with 0000 degreased steel wool. Then you apply the first rusting coat. The pattern is very vivid after the etch, the 0000 steel wool does not remove it. I like this as the pattern is visible during the subsequent rustings, so it can be managed better to avoid faults. I also use a Copper Sulphate/Ferrous Sulphate/Logwood treatment (as per the Parker Process) for the intermediate etch, and Ferric Chloride (4%) for subsequent ones.

KEN: Are you actually using sulfuric acid? Have you done brown
barrels this way or all black/white? thanks! Gil Russell

The original Belgian method that we can document, used sulfuric acid. They simply poured it over the ground barrels. Here is a list of modern restorers:

Buck Hamlin
Pevely, MO
636-479-4304

Steve Bertram
Boulder, CO
303-938-1996

Dale Edmonds
Kansas City, MO
816-444-2040

Keith Kearcher
Bend, OR
541-617-9299

Dewey Vicknair
Ephrata, Pennsylvania
717-733-2145

Feel free to call one of them up. IF they have the time, they will gladly share with you. Each approaches the subject on their own terms, so there are variations.

Pete