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Joined: Mar 2013
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Proper Damascus refinishing (as per Flanigan's tutorial) requires the presence of a least one Gun Dog, preferably a Setter. I use two Setters just to be sure.

Canvasback made a good point about Doug, he would often ignore specific questions. I can understand this, technique is often a hard-won thing.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 03/10/16 12:26 PM.

I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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I am quite comfortable doing a good job rust bluing. But a man has to know his limitations, I leave the Damascus to Ken as he is so much better than me at that, and some patterns and brown and white, make me say real bad words!

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Good to see the interest in this subject.
Here in England good guys are passing away very rapidly, and the knowledge is dying with them.
Perhaps some guidance on making rusting liquids , specific tried and tested or modified solutions from Angier's book? Remember with import restrictions and taxes we may not be able to easily obtain American brands such as Laurel Mountain etc.
Tips and pitfalls would also be useful. Move the whole thread to Gunsmithing if necessary (admin?) But lets us share our knowledge please.

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I'm no expert but I've found that learning as you go along gives you a "feel" for the job.
There are too many different types of metal involved to be able to publish a step by step guaranteed method , but the stages of the process could be compiled.
I'm pretty sure the main points would be not to remove too much metal,
work along the full length of the barrel/s , remember that grease and oil are your enemies until you're finished,
If you're not quite happy with your prep work, you're very probably right,
Never give up - most blotches and blemishes can be worked on again until they're fixed,
Don't leave solutions on too long ! It's easier to do another pass than it is to remove pits ( and more metal ) !
Don't leave solution in the bores !
Be prepared to take extra time to carefully work on the breach and muzzle ends so you don't round off the corners
Have more than one rust solution at hand, sometimes your favourite simply won't work yet another will
Don't try and fix oval or dented muzzle ends by tapping a cone or drift in unless you're a dab hand at it and know you'll get it right, a shotgun is not a blunderbus ! smile
Be prepared to sit with your head in your hands or shed tears when trying to black sleeved guns where two completely different metals make up the two parts or you have leaky grease or flux filled joints that only leak after you have cleaned them 17 times already !
Just keep at it, I was extremely grateful for a few tips from an expert barrel browner on this forum who took time to tell me that if it doesn't work straight away, keep trying, he said that over time you'll see what's happening or not happening and experience will pay dividends.

It's true too. After all the hitches and sore fingers, when a pair of barrels comes out well and you can see your smiling face reflected in the lovely deep finish, it's extremely satisfying.
Oh, and don't forget which safe place you've left the sight bead and try not to be tempted to play with anything that starts with mercur.....

Last edited by El Garro; 04/05/16 02:02 PM.

Rust never sleeps !
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Originally Posted By: salopian
Good to see the interest in this subject.
Here in England good guys are passing away very rapidly, and the knowledge is dying with them.
Perhaps some guidance on making rusting liquids , specific tried and tested or modified solutions from Angier's book? Remember with import restrictions and taxes we may not be able to easily obtain American brands such as Laurel Mountain etc.
Tips and pitfalls would also be useful. Move the whole thread to Gunsmithing if necessary (admin?) But lets us share our knowledge please.


From Angier, I like to use a C.10 variant for Damascus and Twist. C.19 is what I use for Fluid Steel. It's a very deep black. I've also used an Aqua Regia type for Fluid Steel, (HCL and Nitric acids, iron filings/powder) but it doesn't keep for long periods like C.19 does.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 04/09/16 09:46 AM.

I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Ken61, and others,
Thank you for your interest in this subject, I am a little disappointed that this thread has not taken off as you maybe would expect amongst enthusiasts.
When you consider that the task is labour intensive and many of us have time to spare and for free, why do not more of us learn this soon to be lost skill?
I do not think there is one book or article has ever been published with a step by step guide to barrel blacking or browning. All we ever read about is take care with problems , but none or few solutions to those problems.

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This may be slightly off topic, but after trying a number of times to do Damascus barrels I just pay the piper - Brad Bachelder [ a master gunsmith in Grand Rapids Mi ] . All his work is first class, whether it's Damascus, fluid steel, or color case harding. One time after I ask about the process of doing Damascus barrels he commented that different barrels from different makers took a different solution. He does many barrels at one time, but all from the same manufacture. He claimed when doing Parker barrels, it made a difference if they were pattern, twist, or laminate. So, like others have said, it's a learning process - good luck to all of you who try.

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Agree, I have the most respect for those of you that make the effort. I have used Craig Smith of CircleFly for my browns and have been more then happy with the results. Here is a recent example of a Dougall Craig did for me. The challenge that he accomplished was achieving a finish that Blended perfectly with the rest of the gun that was not refinished.


Last edited by kcordell; 05/03/16 08:18 AM.
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I'll reiterate a point I've made several times before. Results are due to the standards of whomever performs the process. The process for Damascus/Twist/Laminated tubes is fairly straightforward. The problem is that the process is complicated in regard to faults. Fault management occurs at virtually every step of the process. Knowing how to evaluate and correct, or preferably avoid them comes only with experience.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 05/02/16 10:17 AM.

I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Out of interest, do you guys who do your own barrels, plug the ends , or shellac the bores or both?

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