doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Show and tell

Long time lurker here... finally sighned up.

I recently got a J.P. Sauer & Sohn - Suhl 12 gauge sxs. 28 1/4 " barrels, choked full and full, DT, Ext, auto. safety. It has about 95% color case and blue, however the stock finish is flaking off. I want to take the butt stock of and refinish with an oil finish. I remove the trigger guard without any problems. I then remove the tang screw that was under the triggerguard. The
butt would not come off. Are there any other screws holding the butt on? I really need to be careful because there are gold leaf inlays on both side of the stock just behind the receiver. One inlay is a duck or goose in flight and the other inlay are the initials of a previous owner. The initial are "BN" which just so happen to be my initials. HMMMM. I got the Sauer from Allan Armory for $600.00 and I'm really pleased. Any suggestions on removing the butt stock and the type of finish I should use?

link for pictures
http://photosmart.hpphoto.com/FilmStripH...184a&SKU=HP

I hope the link works, I know just enough about computers to be dangerous.

Thanks!!

Take the butt plate off and see if there is a big hole that runs up through the middle of the stock. It probably contains a big bolt head and that bolt runs into the receiver of you gun. Back the bolt out and see if you can gently remove the stock.

Welcome to the board,
There is a screw concealed under the top lever. Your picture with the gun open shows it, move the lever to the right to open the gun and there it is. Some guns you also have to remove the triggerplate. Ross

Bob, looking at your pictures I think you will have to remove the trigger plate. You are part way there; first get a screwdriver that fits the screw in front of the trigger guard and the one under the top lever.
Procedure:
1. remove trigger guard
2. remover rear tang screw
3. remove floor plate screw in front of the trigger guard
4. loosen screw under top lever and tap it down to loosen trigger plate
5. remove trigger plate
6. carefully remove action, it is not necessary to remove sears on the Sauers I have seen. Be careful, yours might be different, don't force any thing, you don't want to damage the stock.

Jim

My JP Saur has the finest screw slots I ever saw. I don't recomend
any non experienced gunsmith try removing them. If you fit that discription why not patch the finish. You did real well when you purchased the gun for 600 don't try to get it down to that value with a DIY attack.
bill

Thanks for the replies. Can anyone determine what model I have?
On the barrel flats are the numbers 750 (date of mfg?). Allan at Allans Armory said that it was made in July 1950.

Thanks!!

Nice gun, Bob! For $600 it's a heck of deal.

The stock and metal are in such different condition it doesn't make sense. But for $600, the story behind the difference is irrelevant.

There's a lot of good modified oil finishes (Tru-oil is standard one). I'm using Permalyn Sealer these days. But what are you going to use as a stripper? One that doesn't peel off the gold leaf?

I can't believe they would sell Bob Newhart's Sauer for $600.00. Some gun dealers just don't appreciate dry comedy.

Bob, very nice gun. I have to agree with Bill about removing fine slotted screws and ruining them. Too hard to replace. What I would do first is try using some alcohol on a lint free rag and try rubbing what finish is left onto where the finish is worn. If the alcohol doesn't work try lacquer thinner and again use a lint free rag and do the same and try to "melt" the old finish and move it to the worn area. Do this enough and the it will cover the whole area with a very thin finish. You can then add some varnish to another lint free rag and rub this on very lightly until you get the desired finish you like.
If you want an oil finish then you will have to strip the old finish very carefully so as not to remove the gold inlays.

Thanks guys. I tried some rubbing alcohol and it removed some
of the finish that I think was already loose. Do you think wood
alcohol would work or is laquer thinner the best option?