doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com 10ga. brass hulls

HJ wrote, "Why the brass hulls ?"

Longevity.

"Your friend does know that in a SxS there's the possibility of a the load shifting in an un-crimped hull from the recoil of the other barrel."

My initial problems with OS cards dislodging in cold weather has been fixed by using 1 gauge oversized OS cards. I have used a variety of glues and settled on water Glass ONLY because I had to buy a quart of the stuff as it does not come in small quantities. Glue does not appear to be as important as I once thought because the oversized OS cards seems to contain the shot effectively and the glue is just added security. There has not been an OSC failure in a long time.

You can often find the odd 10ga Brass hull at gunshows. I just picked up a half dozen last weekend. I drill out the pocket with a 15/64 bit, then chamfer the top of the pocket so a 209 primer will fit.

I'm going to try to bag a Fall Turkey with my Bland with'em.

Regards
Ken

I have been loading and shooting all brass hulls for over 9 years and it has been a very enjoyable process. I do not know why, but brass hulls have given me the best patterning shotgun ammo that I have ever loaded.
I bought my hulls from Rocky Mountain Cartridge when they were in Cody WY. They have since changed owners and are in Worland WY.
RMC brass hulls are turned from bar stock and cost approximately $5 each. According to Dave Casey, the previous owner of RMC, Cowboy Action shooters have reloaded RMC brass hulls over 3,000 times. It should be obvious that pump, lever and semi-auto shotguns are not well suited for brass hull use.
It is important to note that if you shoot a double gun or a gun with multiple barrels, the bores must have identical dimensions or you run the risk of having some or all of your hulls expanding to the largest bore size and thus making them unsuitable for smaller bore size(s). RMC can make a full case resizing tool if your bores are not dimensionally the same.

According to RMC any published gauge appropriate load found in reloading manuals or powder manufactures web sites will work in their brass hulls because they have the �same inside diameter� as plastic hulls. In my search for the perfect load, I have loaded and patterned many published loads using 1-piece wads with success ranging from poor to outstanding. My 16 Ga. and 28 Ga. favorite loads and best patterns use card and fiber wads and 1-piece plastic work very well in 12 and 20 Ga.. When patterning shotgun loads, barrels often have a mind of their own.

Reloading brass hulls takes more time to load than plastic or paper because hand tools are necessary, not a press. I shoot clay targets using plastic and paper loads, but for hunting, it�s all brass for moi.

I have a wooden box that contains shotgun cleaning supplies, hand loading tools, primers, wads, cards, powder, powder dippers, shot and shot dippers. When I hunt away from home the box goes along and in the evening after shotgun maintenance, I reload the empty hulls from the days hunt using powder and shot dippers for my favorite loads. Each powder dipper has been verified by scale with each new powder purchase.
When at home, my loading process may be more than most want to do. I put all of my fired hulls in a tumbler and let them shine up over night. I then de-prime and inspect hulls. I chuck up a bronze brush in my drill press and run the brush in and out a few times. Each hull mouth is then cleaned with carburetor cleaner.
If I choose to reload in the field I use a small piece of #40 sandpaper to rough up the inside of the case mouth and do not clean with carburetor cleaner, I just blow in the case and tap the base to remove any loose particles before reloading. Hulls are then loaded and oversized OSC�s are secured with Sodium Silicate aka Water Glass.
A note on OSC fixing glues. I have used a variety of glues and settled on water Glass only because I had to buy a quart of the stuff as it does not come in small quantities. Glue does not appear to be as important as I once thought because the oversized OS cards seem to contain the shot effectively and the glue is just added security. There has not been an OSC failure in a long time.
To identify the different loads, each OSC has penciled data and the primers are color coded. A pencil is used because I have not found an ink that will not run regardless of the glue used.
Brass hulls look good going into or out of a double gun and I hope this inspires you to consider loading brass hulls.

I believe the price now is 7.50 from TOTW. I always used a Mec Jr to reload my brass cases. If they took a pistol primer then the deprimer and prime tools for the Mec have to be made, or do it by hand. A 46 bushing can be used for powder drops with BP and even cut off for more powder. Because I used a Mec, for the 12ga brass, I use 10ga OP, OS, and cushiom wads for a tighter fit. This was with the extruded brass. With them I tried drilling out the primer pockets to use 209 primers but had a lot of trouble depriming them. The base was so thin the primer would stick up into the powder and get corroded they wouldn't come out. As it was more than a couple of years ago I'm not sure if I was using nitro or BP. Probably black seeing how I never did find a nitro load to work in the extruded cases.

Be careful with the water glass it's very poisonous.

I load RMC 10g and Magtech 12g & 16g MagTech for cowboy shooting and Elemer's wood glue works well to seal the the hull.

Another piece of incorrect and useless information by HoJo! Sodium Silicate is used in water treatment plants to help purify the water, so it must not be too poisonous.

I use Alcan 10 gauge hulls and use Elmer's School Glue
Mike

Actually, jOe is correct. Chlorine is also used in water treatment plants, but you wouldn't want to drink it, get it on your skin, or inhale it.

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1137.html

http://www.livestrong.com/article/293701-what-are-the-dangers-of-sodium-silicate/

Try drinking some of it then you idiOt....