doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com At least he picked a red pad...

If it has been hot blued I would assume that the ribs need to be removed, cleaned up and resoldered in place.

If the ribs have to be reset as AmarilloMike suggests, you might want to budget for rebluing them, too.

Still, that would wind up with you in it at less than a 0 frame 16 normally brings.

One more thing: I'd only buy "on approval" (i.e., you can have it checked out by a good smith on your dime) and that would include a good inspection for minimum wall thickness, chamber length and possibly over-reamed chambers (if they were lengthened).

It is a nice shooter, but I don't think I need a Parker shooter.

Truly no offense intended, BUT ...if you do feel it's a nice gun and and you don't need another Parker why scrutinize the guys sale ?.

This seller and myself have had dealing in the past and he's nothing but honest and agreeable,by the way Canoe ,the Lc Smith has new barrels and forend ,someday I will find the time to finish it up !

That Parker reminds me of one Steve Bertram has that was a gift to me from one of my sons. Hot blued all the way to the action, off face, dented and riveled (sp?) barrels, and an exploded stock held together by spit and some exposed screws.

Don't think I'm going to come out in the black on this one, but that was not the point. When Steve gets done with it it will be one of my prizes! (and I may have to work out an easy monthly payment plan)...Geo

Probably not a bad price as a shooter if you can be certain of the barrel wall thickness and integrity of the ribs, etc. as others have advised. Even if the ribs are tight, I'd want to flush the area between the ribs and barrels to remove any hot salts residue that could still be working on the solder joints, then dry it out thoroughly and flush again with some corrosion inhibitor. There may be a small vent hole already drilled in the bottom rib to do this, or you may have to do it yourself. I don't believe it would be necessary to do a strip and relay of the ribs as long as they are tight and no corrosive residue remains. I've seen some hot blued soft soldered doubles that suffered no damage decades after the dirty deed was done.

I recently bought a 16 ga. straight grip Syracuse Lefever GE that unfortunately had the action blued with what I believe is cold blue. Thankfully they didn't do the same to the Damascus barrels. I will be removing most or all of that cold blue because I think it will look much better. It is nice enough that it may be worth a new color case hardening job. We'll see.

No offense taken or intended, and no disrespect meant against the seller; I have no doubt he is a fine fellow. What I've done (and should not have done) is mix to subjects that should have been kept separate: 1) Thoughts on this gun; and 2) double gun values in Canada versus U.S. in general. I didn't mean to imply that this seller should further drop his price, but after re-reading I certainly came across that way. I'm going to shut up now...

How does one remove cold blue without causing [further] damage?

Birchwood Casey makes a cold blue remover

Or White Vinegar. Or that evaporust stuff from harbor freight works well too.