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Joined: Dec 2001
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Originally Posted By: HomelessjOe
I bet that works good for hemorrhoids...


That seems a bit extreme and I am not trained as a proctologist, but if they are bothering you that much.....


Mike
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Originally Posted By: Daryl Hallquist
Do you by chance have pics of the Loomis or other barrels, before and after ? Thanks, Daryl


Daryl,

Pics from this thread. When I have a chance, I'll get the Williams out of the safe to reconstruct the first picture.

Before:

Williams on left, Loomis on right.


After:

[/quote]


Mike
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Mike, thanks. Sort of off the topic, but I noticed the offset top tang screws in your pics. I seem to remember this is prominent in Webley and or Scott designs for a period of time. Daryl

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Daryl,

Before and after pics of electrolysis process below. Only abrasive used is some 0000 steel wool to scrub off the residue created by the process. Scrubbed with warm water and dish soap, then oiled. Several dry wads of paper towel pushed through the bores. Then oiled.




Before:

Williams on left, Loomis on right.


After:




The damascus pattern doesn't pop, but much, much better than they started.


Mike
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Originally Posted By: Daryl Hallquist
Mike, thanks. Sort of off the topic, but I noticed the offset top tang screws in your pics. I seem to remember this is prominent in Webley and or Scott designs for a period of time. Daryl


The screw is offset and runs through the stock at an angle to the center of the trigger plate. It is offset to allow the toplever spring to be attached to the bottom of the tang. Is this the same on the Webley or Scott's?

This is the spring that is broken in the Loomis.

I made a 'sample' spring from mild steel (spring steel on order from Brownells) as it is bit more complicated shape due to the mounting screw on the end. I may have to start with a piece of vehicle leaf spring as the screw hole is placed in a location that makes it difficult to shape from readily available stock. Will see when the Brownells shipment arrives.



Mike
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Mike, thanks for the pictures. It sure helps understand what you are doing. Did I miss how much soda you put into your volume of water ? Daryl

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Daryl,

One tablespoon baking soda to each gallon of water.


Mike
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Originally Posted By: Daryl Hallquist
Do you by chance have pics of the Loomis or other barrels, before and after ? Thanks, Daryl


Daryl,

Sorry for the tardy reply. I've been reworking all my guns using the Original Parker Process. Including this Loomis IXL No.18 (Birmingham gun).



Regards,
Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Mike,

How long do you keep the barrels in the electrolysis? I'm curious on that part. I have used this method many times to clean steel including barrels. I have found that it converts all iron oxide to black oxide and that it is reasonably easy to remove with steel wool or any form of abrasive pad. My last set of barrels were grey patina with no amount of original finish left.

So I wonder if the original bluing stays as a result of time in the tank.

I use it as an efficient method to convert all rust to black oxide everywhere on the barrels, inside an out prior to refinishing.

Jason

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Jason,

No set time. I just monitor them when I remember to do so.

Had to run some errands, make dinner, etc. when the Loomis barrels were in the tank. They were in for 7-8 .hours at a minimum

When I want to strip blacking for a refinish, I use Evaporust.


Mike
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