Thanks for the offer,
I have lot`s of both Nitric and Hydrochloric acid. The Parker method was published in DGJ in 2003. It's worth the read, with the few modifications I made it works really well. Like Gaddy, the rusting solution composition probably isn't real significant, but the initial etchant applied to the tubes before it certainly is. (my opinion) It's merely 1/2 oz of Hydrochloric Acid and 1/2 oz of Copper Sulfate in one quart of water. Applied very lightly to avoid copper deposits, and immediately followed by the rusting solution. This is essentially an etching, rather than a rusting solution and results in a nice pattern throughout the rusting cycles. It also means you can keep the rusting solutions strength stronger throughout the process, as opposed to using intermediate Ferric Chloride etches to bring out the pattern.
I consider Copper Sulfate in the Logwood solution to be essential as well. 60 cc/ml logwood powder, 30 cc/ml ferrous sulphate, and 1 1/2 oz of copper sulfate per gallon of soak. This creates a reddish copper "felt" accumulation on the barrels, but when scrubbed off with drywall paste it reveals the strong black and white contrast. Gaddy's article suggests taking even brown and white barrels through the logwood soaks, and then applying light rusting solutions to the tubes afterwards (no boiling) to achieve the desired brown color.
I went with solutions from Angier that I would be able to exactly duplicate. I chose that route rather than use solutions that I would have to omit the Mercuric Chloride from.
Regards Ken
Last edited by Ken61; 06/27/15 10:45 AM.
