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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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What is that? It looks like a diagram of a Pig (perhaps a Boar) stamped on the action flats, above the word "England". Anyone know what that could mean?
Last edited by Ken61; 05/19/15 06:19 AM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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That is Grenners Mark, an elephant.
Firearms imports, consignments ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/Ez9oz9Rl.jpg)
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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If my memory is correct the word "Choke" replaced "Not For Ball" in 1887. This would fit in with the 1892 date mentioned.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Looking at the photo of the underside of your barrels makes me think that perhaps they were refinished with DuraCoat or Cerakote firearms finish. It looks like there is some scroll engraving on the barrel lug that is completely filled in except where the finish has flaked off. I'd lean toward it being DuraCoat because it looks pretty thick, and Cerakote is typically only .0005" to .001" thick. Cerakote is also usually baked on, and I don't know what temperature is used for baking or if it would melt soft solder joints on double barrels.
Of the two, I'd hope it was the DuraCoat just because Cerakote is supposed to be much tougher to remove. Even DuraCoat is said to be pretty tough to remove. It is suggested to use Jasco Paint and Epoxy Remover, because most other chemical paint strippers won't remove it. Jasco is sold at Lowe's and Home Depot for about $10.00 a quart. Even with the Jasco, it is going to take some wire brushing. Jasco is a methylene chloride stripper, so you'd want to use rubber gloves and eye protection. Great info, thanks! The coating is indeed very thick, filing in a lot of the fine detail of the gun. Also, the barrels still ring like a chime with no evidence of high heat exposure (no rattles, dull thuds, etc).
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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The marking on the action flat is a pretty funny looking Elephant. I wonder why it looked so different than the one's on the barrels.
Last edited by Ken61; 05/19/15 09:58 AM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Perhaps the best course will be to use some Jasco on the barrels under the forearm to see what it reveals, and move ahead from there.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Note that the "Heat" of ordinary hot salts bluing does not melt the solder. It is the chemical reaction of the Lye with the lead/tin solder which eats it away. It will also devour aluminum.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Note that the "Heat" of ordinary hot salts bluing does not melt the solder. It is the chemical reaction of the Lye with the lead/tin solder which eats it away. It will also devour aluminum. This begs this next question: Why do you see Lye sometimes used as either a degreaser or neutralizer when refinishing double gun barrels? I've never considered using it, but it's sometimes mentioned. Is it merely a matter of strength? How is Lye used during the Hot process? I'm fairly unfamiliar with the Hot process, since I can't ever see a reason to use it. This is one of those "nice to know" questions... Regards
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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The Lye used as a degreaser or neutralizer is very weak as compared to that in a hot blue solution. One formula I have seen for mixing your own hot blue calls for 5 lbs of lye per gallon of water, Far more than would be used for degreasing or neutralizing.
As I understand it the lye is an economical method of raising the boiling temperature of the mixture, the nitrates do the oxidizing. The mixtures generally operate around 285° F which allows the nitrates to provide rapid oxidizing but is still below the melting point of solder.
In industry this process is generally known as Black Oxiding & has many uses & is the process used on most modern firearms which have a "Blue" finish.
In the machine shop I worked in on several occasions we made Hollow parts by machining a piece of aluminum to the inner dimensions, having this piece nickel plated thick enough to give the outside dimensions. We would then finish machine the outside, place the works in a strong lye solution & heat it. In a few hours the aluminum was completely disintegrated & we had the nickel shell left.
I am not absolutely certain if the lye works on the tin or the lead in solder, but believe it to be the lead.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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