doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Removing the bluing from a SxS Barrels

What is the best way to go about removing the bluing from a SxS set of Barrels?

I have a 1920's set of barrels that were reblued and the prep prior to the previous reblue was not done well so that they do not look right. I thought I might go ahead and remove the current finish and polish the exterior myself before sending them out for a refinish by a professional. I have have done it once before on a set of damascus barrels with wet sand paper, but thought there might be a better way.

Naval Jelly works well. Coat and wait ten minutes. As does a Boric acid soak, the "Roach Powder" found at a store like "Dollar General". Five heaping tablespoons per gallon of hot water. Again, a ten minute soak. After using either product, a scrub down with a green scrubby pad will remove all the bluing.

Afterwards, I like to sand the barrels when they're in a tray of water, it makes the wet/dry sandpaper work more efficiently.

Make sure you degrease with acetone before either treatment.

Here's a thread with lot's of good info:

http://doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=396418&page=1

PA24 really has the prep down to a science.

Regards
Ken

Also the concrete etch at Home Depot that is phosphoric acid works well and in my experience doesn't etch as much as naval jelly. It is in the paint dept. They seem to be the only box that carries it. Mark

The solutions suggested by Ken will work very well but, although messy, rubbing the barrels down with W&D paper direct from black, is my preference. I start with 400 grade and finish with 800 and only use a heavier grade if I need to on specific scratches or marks. Lubricated with water (if you are certain of your ribs' integrity)or a very light lubricant such as WD40, you can see the scratches that need removing very clearly while the blacking remains within them. When no black lines remain, you can go to the polishing wheel for the final gloss.
BTW I do not do the wheel polish on damascus, nor often go finer than 400 grade as I suspect it seals the surface and makes it more difficult to get the browning started.

Oxalic acid also works. It's found in wood "bleaching" and "brightening" products typically used on exterior decking.

As Mark stated, Naval Jelly can create a mild etch, which is removed as part of the polishing process. When applied to pattern-welded barrels after polishing, it can serve as the initial etch, right before the rusting process begins.

Here's what that look's like, right before rusting:



After:



Ken

I prefer the time proven method of all hand work and polishing, no wheels or power equipment of any kind. Start with one grit and slowly work up to the finer grits.

Remove all the dents first then draw file all the dings, nicks etc. and finally begin polishing with various W & D grits.

The fewer the number of caustic acidic chemicals that work their way between the ribs the better in my opinion.


First Pass


First Pass


Final Finish


Final Finish


Final Finish

Doug, those barrels are shinier than the bumper on Elvis Presley's Cadillac.

Doug,

What was the final grit used on those barrels? Did you go beyond 400?

Ken

Ken,

Yes, I usually go beyond 400 depending the level of finish the customer wants. I commonly use 600 and I've been known to use 1000 and 1500......on some.....

Best Regards,

Great looking MF Ideal barrels !

Tell us more about it, please.