I'm using it for all stages, although sometimes I use a copper sulphate/NaCl (Bordeaux) etch initially. For the ferric chloride, decreasing the strength gives a little more control since it becomes a matter of etch duration, erring on the side of caution and opting for additional etches instead. Finer Damascus requires more cycles, a 2-iron Crolle barrel such as from an LC 0 or Remington KED requires fewer cycles than say a finer 4-iron set like a Parker D, or even a 3-iron "Washington" set. The finer the pattern, the more cycles needed to bring out the detail. On the last 4-iron set I ended up going 16 cycles.
One thing I usually do, as per Flanigan's tutorial, is not boil until The pattern is where I want it. Careful inspection and carding during the first rust or two is imperative. Inspection under magnification is helpful to make sure there are no streaks or patches initially. If they exist, they'll only get worse after boiling. If after say, the third rust they exist, it's better to strip back down and begin again. You'll actually save time rather that trying to overcome faults throughout the process. You don't want to get to the end and have visible faults, I guarantee you won't be happy. If you have rib leaks, be sure and correct them initially with some shellac down the void, as etchant leaking out is a sure way to bugger the pattern.
Last edited by Ken61; 04/14/15 01:41 PM.
