doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cleaning rust-oxidation from old receivers?

Some of my old SxS's have brown oxidation in their engraving cuts. The receivers are fairly bright, but the rust is below the surface so it doesn't get worn off when carrying and shooting the gun. Does any one have a good method of cleaning the engraving cuts without scratching or damaging the receiver? I've tried wiping with with Hoppes bore cleaner and some of the rust does come off, but the rest of it looks darker than before. Has anyone tried a mild soltion of muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) which would then be neutralized with a baking soda solution? I read that will remove black iron oxide (bluing). Why wouldn't it remove brown iron oxide? Any other ways to do this? Thank you for ideas.

Joe,

Dentists use plastic scalers when cleaning implants. They do so to prevent damage to the titanium implant. I suggest that you sharpen a stiff plastic rod and use it to chase the engraving.

Phil

Joe,
If your receiver is NOT case colored, or has lost its original case coloring then a soft BRONZE bore brush and Hoppe's No. 9 may do the trick. The Bronze is softer than the best blued surface and will remove rust and oxidation without scratching or removing original rust bluing...but it is possible to put light scratches into case coloring if its been sealed with a varnish.
For your application, just wet the brush and work it in a light circular motion to clean out the engraving.

Roger

I would consider boiling it in water - that will stop the rusting action cold. Then some sort of soft brush to clean it out and oil from there. Follow with a good oil and you are done.

Anything like acids are going to far and will affect whatever other finish you might have on there. wowever. some folks use toilet bowl cleaner and the like. Basically acid treatments.

Brent

Along the lines of Phil's suggestion, how about a toothpick dipped in Hoppes or acetone? I would be worried about boiling water messing up the hardness of the frame.

I do not think that boiling water will change the hardness of metal. May change the color of the rust.
Casey

It takes about 300F to affect the hardest high carbon steel, so boilng water is safe. Boiling will convert red rust to black as in rust bluing, and will make it much easier to remove mechanically. In WWII, frontline military armorers commonly boiled rusty gun parts to convert the rust and make it easier to remove and also to restore the black color wanted.

OB

You gotta be kidding?

Rust blued receivers are boiled. As are rust blued barrels.

Brent

You gotta be kidding?

Rust blued receivers are boiled. As are rust blued barrels.

Brent

If my memory is not too bad, I think OB was a metallurgist or related pro. So, he's probably spot on with the 300F from a purely technical perspective, but I'll step out on a limb and say heating would unlikely be of any functional detriment on a cased frame until it got well above 400F and more likely above 500F.

One of the 'rust and blueing removers' should do the deed quickly but will remove any "patina" oxides as well.

I have a question for OB (if you're the metallurgist I'm thinking of). Since the outer layer of a case hardened steel is of high carbon and hardness, would embrittlement be a concern with the use of acids like it is with high strenth/hardness martensitic steels like 300M etc?