Hi Erland
Red oil traditionally its colour came from Madder Root and other versions did use Dragons Blood a tree resin. I did notice in the H&H film Madder root was mentioned possibly trying to keep the blinds drawn over Alkanet.
Alkanet colouring we all know now is a plant root derivative but it also has another quality other than being a dye. In fact its first major use was as an Acid Alkaline indicator in the early nineteenth century but it was superseded by the more efficient Litmus. So what can happen when you apply it to raw un-treated timber its colour can differ from one piece of timber to another and sometimes across a piece of timber. Also the colour character changes when infused in water oil or spirits so some bright person noticed this possibly working in the soap industry because Alkanet was used to colour soaps and the candles supplied by mine owners to stop them being stolen by miners for home use. So Alkanet can do more than a factory manufactured dye stuff it can change colour according to what it is applied to just the thing for adding a bit of mystery to a high price gun finish.
Ken 61 did give you my version of Red Oil but truthfully the formula was given to me by a chap called Andy half a life time away now whose sir name to my shame I omitted to take note of while writing down the constituents of his version of red oil. It is made from 50/50 Linseed oil and Walnut oil but do not purchase paint store Linseed oil purchase edible Linseed oil which is sometimes sold under the name Flax seed oil also edible Walnut oil both are more than a match for Art quality oils. Dried Alkanet root pieces was specified and not the root powder the reason given was the powder could stay in the woods pores and on the surface then leaching into other applied coats also no driers are added to Andys Oil.
You did ask about waxes and my personal conclusion was not to put wax in finishing oils for this reason, if you put a wax on an untreated piece of wood and polish it up after about a week the shine will disappear because the wax slowly sinks into the wood. So to keep the shine a barrier must applied to the woods surface to stop the wax sinking in and what better than Linseed oil let it dry and then apply the wax as a polish and that silky smooth lustre remains for a considerable time before it is oxidised. All my guns stocks have a thin waterproof surface treatment so minor dents and marks do not show with a soft sheen using wax polish made from a mix of Bees and Carnauba Wax in Turpentine. Oh I do enjoy the smell of real Turpentine!!!!
