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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,403 Likes: 17
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,403 Likes: 17 |
Sorting files found this that may be of interest to the barrel bluing guys. I have seen other formulas, some for figured barrels, somewhere in the 'pile.' I don't know if this was their latest formula or not. Anyway, for what it is worth. 
Walter c. Snyder
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,403 Likes: 721
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,403 Likes: 721 |
Very interesting, especially the final boil in the logwood solution. I have some around here somewhere and I might give that a go and see how it works out for me.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Very nice. The problem in recreating it is the "Sweet Spirits of Nitre" and "Corrosive Sublimate". SSN was once an over the counter medicine, but as I understand it, it was banned back in 1980. I've looked, but have been unable to find a source. Mercuric Chloride (Corrosive Sublimate) was another popular ingredient in the older solutions, but is simply too dangerous to use. Too bad, elimination of the solutions that contain those two ingredients wipes out over half of the recipes found in Angier's book.
Logwood soaks work great, especially if you add a little Copper Sulfate or Ferrous Sulfate.
Regards Ken
Last edited by Ken61; 08/17/14 09:17 PM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
I buy logwood dye as an out door leg hold trap dye. You don't have to fool with the actual wood chips. bill
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
I buy the same thing. Powder works great. Logwood bought from soak maker suppliers is incredibly expensive.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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