|
|
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
|
5 members (SKB, mel5141, doublenut, 2 invisible),
933
guests, and
2
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,490
Posts562,014
Members14,584
| |
Most Online9,918
Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651 |
Last edited by KY Jon; 04/22/14 01:01 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 496
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 496 |
KY Jon:
was this the gun on gunbroker about a month ago? if so I believe there was some internal damage and welding done to an internal part and possibly had the action sprung. im just curios as I was close to buying it as a project.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
I think I would color some epoxy and put it together. After things have set up I would disassemble it and route a grove under the tang an trigger guard for some birch plywood. That plywood needs to be epoxied in place. Then recut the checkering and put it together.
bill
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651
Sidelock
|
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651 |
Might be hard to see but it has had two areas that have cracked on one side about half an inch apart at different times. I think this blank which is even better in hand than the pictures show should have been used on a small bore gun or a through bolt gun. I will soak it and take it apart to see if it can be repaired. Better than plywood is a diamond wood insert. Laminated wood that has been impregnated with resins. Slow setting epoxy with proper coloring does hide a lot I agree. Figure I have about a month before hot weather makes this job another winter project. Into the soak it will go tonight.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859 |
That's some beautiful wood! It'd be criminal not to repair that stock.
Steve
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,694 Likes: 225
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,694 Likes: 225 |
USAF RET 1971-95 ![[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]](http://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/57865_80x60.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651
Sidelock
|
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651 |
Thanks for posting the pictures skeettx.
Tonight I took the stock apart and got a good look at the break. I could not have placed the break in a worse place. No room for a fillet reinforcement, no place for pins or dowels. Cracks in the wrist going up an down in the center of the stock as well as across the wrist. Only good news is that all the parts are there.
Worse than the break is the quality of the blank used. The stock is very, very light with a lack of density and grain flow that goes as much side to side as longwise. I suspect you could blame most of the failure on the poor strength due to such a balsa like piece of wood. I can repair it, but it will not last. This is the stress point when the gun is shot and when the gun is opened and closed. the fact that the wrist is very slender only makes it weaker. Worse in a way is the number and extent of inletting this gun has from this point forward. There is no way to reinforce it. Most of the area from here forward is 50-60% removed by the inletting. Even if I tried to use a fillet approach you might as well start over. Hard to make air stronger.
So now I have to deal with what I have to work with. First I am going to epoxy it back into original condition for a pattern stock. Then I am going to pick out the very densest French or English walnut blank in my rack and copy the front third of the stock allowing extra wood left in the grip area and then fit it to the receiver. Then the final step will be to cut this stock apart and do a butt splice so I can save the rear portion of the stock. That way I will have the fancy exhibition butt stock and get away from this pithy wrist area.
Shade matching should be straight forward unless I choose some blank that is ten shades darker or lighter. The checkering will allow most if not all of the work to be hidden. I am going to replace the checkered butt stock end with either heel and toe plates or a leather covered pad. Deciding factor might end up being the LOP.
Just your typical project gun. Go in with eyes wide open, expecting the worse and finding out you had no real clue for how bad it gets. Usually the wood work is the thing which goes faster and any metal work take the longest for me. But in this case the metal work was simple and fast. The stock just a little longer. A project I expected to take a few dozen hours just got a extra zero in it I suspect. So let this be a lesson run like Hell from all projects.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,158 Likes: 250
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,158 Likes: 250 |
Hi I thought it was me who tackled stock repair jobs like this one. Any way I use a technique that I have found works exceedingly well in these cases and up to now non of the guns I have repaired have failed in use so far and some have been in use now for some twenty five years but here is always a chance one will.
My method is to clean the break with Acetone and re glue all the parts with an Epoxy adhesive then when all is set and to make sure I leave the stock for a week for that to take place. Now working from the trigger guard slot using an engineers end mill in a milling machine I make a deep slot that runs from the trigger plate through the wrist to the end of the trigger guard slot, the slot you cut must be no wider than the trigger guard its self and when it is screwed in place it covers the added splint. Now you can insert a wrist splint into the slot I have used Stainless Steel, Brass, and Marine Ply if any inletting is required all held in place with Epoxy Adhesive though I will emphasise the slot and splint do have to be a good close fit.
I am not saying this method will work in this situation but it is another method of solving that perennial problem of a stock broken through the wrist.
Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
Damascus
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 290 Likes: 12
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 290 Likes: 12 |
I have a nice side lock hammer gun that broke exactly like that. The wood was oil softened and there was way too much air to do much with so the Stock Doctor is reheading the stock and doing a butt transplant.
W. E. Boyd
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651
Sidelock
|
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651 |
Damascus that was what I expected to be doing but where the front 1/4 of the fracture is it is all so thin from the action inletting and holes for the pin and safety interceptor that no part is much more than 4-5 mm, thinner in some areas than that. If this blank was really dense with decent grain flow in the wrist area it would have been ok. Given the burled, softer than pine or balsa wood blank any repair is iffy. This blank would have been ok for a smallbore double but on a 12 it is a disaster waiting to happen.
So to fix it right I either have to head up a new grip and do a butt graft or restock it completely. And since I bought it for the stock as much as for the gun I think it needs a little graft. I hope to get the wrist area glued back together next week or two to preserve what I have and to use for a pattern for duplication. I foresee many hours of thinking why did I start this again thoughts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
