doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stock finishing

Over 5 years ago a gunsmith friend introduced me to Gun Sav�r Custom Oil mfg. by CP. I have refinished my Parker Repro, two Browning BSS and touched up minor handling marks on my AyA. I chose a Hunter Satan finish and the product is easy to use and dries quickly, plus the finish holds up as good as any I have ever used. Has anyone else used this product and if so are your experiences similar to mine?

My approach is to crumble the alkanet in surgical alcohol and leave to to steep. Surgical alcohol is color neutral, whereas denatured alcohol will darken wood. Using the red alcohol gives me control of just how red I want to go.

For oil I opt for artist grade pure oil, no driers, applied in the thinnest coats. Linseed dries in contact with air, so a thick coat will take a long time drying, and in some cases it might not dry at all.

The method is here www.linseedoilfinish.com

Since linseed and other soaking oils do not give much protection from the elements the method starts with deep sealing with varnish, and it works.

Didn't know the devil was a double gun fan! LOL

Ooops!!

I've had mixed results with Chem-Pak's Pro Custom Oil. The spray cans always clogged up and became useless almost immediately, and the liquid dries too fast for the method I use of wiping the stock after putting on a coat.

I have added it to other finishes for the toughness and weather resistance it gives.
JR

I have been using this finish for over 15 years now. I like it. I have learned to use it and be aware of its limitations. I also have many other finishes to match different needs of restoration and have learned to use them as well.

The Pro Custom oil in a can is able to be made to last if you pull the nozzle and place it in a container of acetone immediately after use. I use a M16 brush to clean the face and the entry port of the nozzle when I remove it from the acetone. I have found it makes the can last much longer and I get to use the nozzles many times on many different cans. I have a collection of about 100 nozzles to rotate for the spay can method. If the nozzle doesn't spray or is a funny fan shape, I can just throw it away and get another to continue.

I also use the liquid for a different look. Thin the liquid with mineral spirits. Always shake the liquid mixture before usage. It goes on thinly and it dries well too.

I have used a Q-tip soaked in acetone to clean the top of the spray can and to remove the build up around the rubber seal at the top of the nozzle opening.

I have used it for many years it is an excellent finish
Lacquer thinner will not remove it once cured.
Correct me if wrong but I don't think linseed or tung oil can claim that.

Dennis Earl,
I think they must have had a bad run of spray cans when I tried it, but that was many years ago. The new can sputtered and dripped on both I tried. Your suggestion is good advice for any spray lacquer or paint.
JR

The cans can still sputter and "spot" at times. I figured out it was my lack of full nozzle engagement during my push of the button. It allows the propellant to "spurt" the finish due to not enough atomization. Layman's terms: the finish will build up a bubble of material at the face of the nozzle under less pressure push and then when you fully push the nozzle fully, a "glob" goes on the stock and leaves an imperfection on your already smooth surface film. I hate it when that happens and have been using an aftermarket spray can gun handle to combat that.

Interesting, I have used Pro Custom oil for a long time and have finished my friends stocks in addition to my own with no spray/nozzle or any other problems.