Buffed up original surface I'd guess.
The top lever looks about ready to pop free of the mack spring they use inside as a lever return spring.
Let the lever back to the locked position and tap it back down in place from the top side with a non-maring hammer,,or even the plastic head of a big screw driver.
Then on the bottom of the action, you'll probably see the small top-lever pivot screw backed out of the trigger plate a few turns.
To get at the screw, you'll most likely have to take the guard screws out,,free the guard tang and unscrew the trigger guard 1/4 turn so the bow is out of the way.
Then tighten the top lever pivot screw backup.
Make sure it's tight but not too tight that it's jams the top lever. It's supposed to fit w/a shoulder so that doesn't happen but that doesn't always come about in a perfect world.
If the top lever works it's way upwards a bit more, it'll disengage from the top lever spring w/a healthy 'snap'. Then you'll have to take the trigger plate off and do that reassemble job that everyone talks about.
Actually not hard to do w/a pin punch and a screw driver w/a slot in the end as the factory did. Just takes a little thought, about 5 seconds with no reason to fear the heavy spring.
Getting rid of the polished look is easy,,getting rid of the rounded edges and blurred lines, lettering and holes is a little tougher. The latter is a quality polishing job to square things back up.
I'd suggest annealing the metal first before doing any of that polishing and case color work.
The high shine will disappear with it and you can put back any gloss you want. A 400grit would be more than plenty for a LCS Field grade.
Touch up the lettering when done.
It'll be ready for a new case color at that time.
Just my thoughts.
