I use superglue, just a dot of the stuff, to glue the #57 primers into cases I load with CleanShot BP sub powder.
I only load the cases once anyway with the stuff, so the glued in primer isn't a problem.
Somewhat of a pain, but it goes pretty fast.,,,
I line up 20 or 30 primers on the bench. Then take a deprimed case in one hand and with the tube of SG in the other,,put just a tiny amt inside the primer pocket. Then push that case down over one of the primers on the bench. Grab another case and do the same,,and on. It's easy to prime 50 to 100 in a few minutes.
(Not so great if you get over confident and not watch the overflowing glue down on your fingers and hand).
Remington Black promo hull is the only one that I've found that will not melt and leave plastic in the bore with the BP sub. Still have to use card and fiber wads though.
But the primers were cheap at $5/brick. Marked as 'obsolete , will not fit modern shells'. I guess that's true.
I tried peening the primer pocket tighter on a ball bearing,,probably about 5/8"d. Just laying the ball on a lead block to keep it from skipping around,,it'll pound a seat into the lead after a bit of use.
Put the deprimed shell pocket on the ball and I use a steel rod (1/2"?) down the hull. Give it a couple healthy wacks. It seems to crimp the mouth/face of the pocket inwards a bit.
It's enough to securely hold onto the #57 primer. It doesn't downsize the entire length of the primer pocket (I don't think),,just the mouth, but I think that's what the commercial tools do also.
It's just got to hold it there so it doesn't fall out or back out.
My light smokeless loads do fine with them and the crimp is reusable. So I run these through the MEC but single load the #57 primers so I don't get them mixed in with any 209s in the primer feed.
The smash-em method gets kind of old and nerve wracking after a couple boxes and the superglue method begins to look good again.
What we won't do for cheap reloads.
