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Thaine,

Most all of my repairs until my last one with super glue I use Brownell's two-part epoxy. It takes a day to set up but if you heat it, it runs like water.


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Is this like the Adolph cap in the other thread?



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Michael,

What is the trigger in this rifle? I see a small screw head on the bottom in front of the rear guard screw and what looks like a hole in the bottom of the guard. Maybe a single set?

Dan

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Originally Posted By: Thaine
Again, this has been an excellent thread. It has helped organize those random bits of knowledge floating around in my skull for 50+ years. I have a couple of questions still.

1. Besides super glue and epoxies, do you use either carpenters or a hide glue when repairing cracks? I know the new synthetics have advantages but wonder if there is still a place for the old varieties.
2. Flitz and SemiChrome are both very fine, as in grit, polishing compounds. Has anyone used either for bolts or the other bits that would have been polished or does it remove too much. My distant memory, the part that still works, recalls a Flitz seller at the local shows that sat polishing an old Colt DA revolver (prewar) at every show I ran into him at. His point was to prove that it didn't harm the original deep blue finish.

While I realize we have Ren Wax and other better protective products; I recall that in the 50s & 60s as a teen, my favorite protective coatings were Hoppes No.9, Rig and Johnson's paste floor wax for those seldom used pieces. Johnsons served me well on wood and metal for decades in the humid Texas and Louisiana Gulf Coast environment.


I don't use carpenter's glue or hide glue for stock cracks. While they may (will) hold securely if the crack is well cleaned out to expose fresh wood and clamped positively, they aren't as strong as epoxy, nor as water proof. In cabinet work, I use hide glue for joinery that may have to come apart for repair a century down the road. Water/steam is the solvent for hide glue. There were times I blessed old craftsman for using hide glue when I had to un-do their work- but on the other hand perhaps the joinery would have still been sound had they used epoxy 200 years ago.

One glue I just can't warm up to is Gorilla Glue, and others of its ilk.

Epoxy will bond with strength if it's impossible, or undesirable, to clamp a crack shut. Yellow glue won't do that very well.

Nothing wrong with Hoppes, Rig, or Johnson's Wax, IMO. Sure, there are better products, but that old stuff is still plenty good.

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Originally Posted By: DanLH
Michael, What is the trigger in this rifle? I see a small screw head on the bottom in front of the rear guard screw and what looks like a hole in the bottom of the guard. Maybe a single set? Dan


Dan, it's a "Pike" self setting set trigger. More on this trigger at a later time.


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This was the stock that convinced me that raw linseed oil was the way to clean a stock and not destroy the original finish.



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The caps are very similar, but not the same. Just a bit of difference borders, screw, etc. Same idea, though.

Last edited by Daryl Hallquist; 01/09/14 06:34 PM.
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Close enough to say same IMHO

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