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3 members (Karl Graebner, 2 invisible),
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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
Some breaks and cracks should not be fixed IMO but that's up to the current caretaker. This is Townsend Whelen's Wundhammer with a cracked stock on the left side, I don't know the story behind the crack so I'll leave it alone. 
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 300 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 300 Likes: 1 |
"On many older rifles you will see that the wood has split between the trigger hole and the magazine box hole. Before you glue this back together clamp it until they are together then try both the magazine box and the barreled action. I learned this lesson the hard way."
Michael,
I have seen this on a couple of my latest acquisitions and wonder what you do about it. I take my new ones apart similar to the method you describe, with magazine/trigger guard last. It is fairly evident when looking down into the inletting that there is a crack, which then "disappears" when the trigger guard is removed and the wood comes back together. This thread is great and thanks to all who are sharing.
Thaine
It ain't ignorance that does the most damage, it's knowing so derned much that ain't so! J. Billings
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
If I can clamp it together and everything then fits back together I glue it. If not I leave it alone.
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
I think about 80% or more of these older sporters with recoil pads have mushroomed. The seem to crumble or have big chunks fall out of them if you try to grind them back a little. The good news is they were mostly Silvers pads and they are still made today. It's hard to find the right person who understands that the pad should follow the lines of the stock.  
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
What do we need to cover on this subject now?
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 171 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 171 Likes: 1 |
Vintage scopes,sights,and maybe even bore restoration.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1 |
What are some techniques to deal with light rust/spotting on the polished bolt body, bolt handle, extractor and Lyman 48 slide? Such as on this rifle: [img:left]  [/img]
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
I would start with Hoppe's No. 9 and 0000 steel wool.
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1 |
Just tried the Hoppe's and steel wool, it worked slick! The bolt handle cleaned up nicely. The worst part, which was the extractor collar, looked pretty bad but cleaned up so you would never know it was rusted.
Do you recommend the same technique for cleaning up the blued parts? I would think the steel wool would remove bluing. Maybe bronze wool?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
Try the same on the underside, if it's a good rust blue no harm will come to the rifle.
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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