doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Soldering loose rib

What is the proper procedure for resoldering a rib that is loose for an inch or so? I plan to use a small butane pencil tip torch, acid flux and low melt temp solder. Does one simply clean the area, heat with rib in place and flow in solder? What about a flush to remove any acid inside the ribs' cavity? Use bicarb of soda, then flush with water and blow dry cavity, followed by a good drying and then a shot of WD40? I am not anticipating any loose ribs on present guns but would not want to bypass a good deal on a gun needing such a repair. Thanks, Chopper

Dont use the acid flux as it keeps oxidizing(sp?) after the clean up under the rib. Use rosin flux or another non-acid flux. Use wire in front and behind the area of the loose rib to keep things in place. Use wire and a wedge to push down the loose spot. You only need a little bit os solder. Heat the barrels and let the heat move toward the rib. Good luck,
Steve

Chopper, I asked Mike Orlen about this and he said he could use a little bit of English powder that he has and fix it very inexpensively. Ken

Removal, clean and relay is the proper procedure.

rather than using wedges, I would suggest making up some C clamps with the screw portion pushing down on the rib. You can bend 1/2" square stock (using a torch) into a sort of square U shape to make the body of the clamp. The top of the U (the portion opposite the screw) should be long that it presses on both barrels.
In my limited experience, with wedges under wire bindings, the wires often slipped as I tried to tap them tighter.

cheers Doug

My concern would be,what made that much rib let go in the first place? It may be a good idea to get a good look underneath before sealing up a problem. In this case I would go the full mile.
Also, the rosin flux will work well in affixing solder to solder, but will not do well in the solder to steel department. One normally tins both pieces of the work, first, using acid flux, then attaches them using the rosin based stuff. In this case, do you really know what you have under there?
Jim

I have had very good results with the method explained. The rib does not always need to be removed and relayed, although that is required sometimes. Relay and reblue is very exspensive and not all guns warrent this type of repair. It depends on what caused it originally and what kind of shape the majority of the joint is in. A small loose spot can often be fixed with out the full monty. Each case is an individual and must be judged as such. Good luck,
Steve

I'd like to know how one determins what caused it ?

The people I know that I trust say it takes the full Monty to be done 'proper'....he asked for 'proper' not a patch job.

One has to us both eyes and your brain a to determine what the cause was.....often times an improper repair to the forend hanger will cause a rib to pop. Just because a relay is the best repair, it is not always best for every situation. Have you ever replaced shoes but not had drums turned on your truck? Depends on if they need to be turned or not. You will find several of the best smiths in the buisiness use this "patch job". It works and works well in the right situation, and my customers are happy to not have to pay for the full monty on what is really a small job. How many ribs have you repaied? I have done lots this way.
Steve

I have trouble relating shotguns to automobiles.

I've had two repaired the proper way....they are usually loose on the ends or down one side.

And contrary to popular belief they will still ring when they are visibly loose.