Vince,
Going by memory, my list included soft steel wire (bailing wire) from a local hardware store, 60/40 (or 63/37) solder from same store or any electronics store. My hardware store had acid and rosin flux. I also bought a foot of 1/2" round steel (or aluminum) bar for wiring the rib, as well as some 1" by 1/4" flat aluminum (or steel) bar for wiring the lower rib. (see my pix on Drew's Picture Trail. I used some ScotchBrite pads and dishsoap to scrub the acid flux residue off.
You'll need a propane torch larger than the typical bottle mounted torch heads found at hardware stores or you'll struggle to get enough heat into the assembly to solder it. I'm sure you can use an oxy-acetylene welding torch, but you'll have to be careful with overheating.
You'll need a couple bars of metal that are straight to use as a twist sighting reference. You lay them across both barrel apex's, one near the muzzle and one nearer the mid point, to see the twist and correct it once wired tightly. You may want to cut notches in the bars for the top rib to clear or simply do this on the bottom of the barrels. I think I used some bars approx 1/2" square by 8" long. But I forget. The pix on Drew's site show this process, I think.
You'll want a flux brush or stick of some kind. I found that the plastic and bristle brushes simply burned up. A wire brush made like an acid brush worked for me.
I used a bench vice to clamp up the lump with soft jaws.
have fun
Chuck
