S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
2 members (SKB, smlekid),
465
guests, and
2
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,503
Posts562,169
Members14,587
|
Most Online9,918 Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 166
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 166 |
Hello, I am the proud owner of my first British Double.. a 16 gauge boxlock Lang. I have never owned an oil finish gun before and I was wondering if anyone here has some tips for maintaining/cleaning the wood. I plan to hunt seriously with this gun.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,722 Likes: 1357
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,722 Likes: 1357 |
If it is just a bit grungy, lemon grass oil works well. I've used it with a tooth brush to clean checkering out, as well.
Best, Ted
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,028 Likes: 125
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,028 Likes: 125 |
Let's see some photos and a description of your new Lang. The J Lang guns are pretty darn nice IMHO. What year was it made, barrel length, chokes, etc?
Socialism is almost the worst.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459 |
An oil finish on a pre-war British boxlock is not responsive to "cleaning" other than a wipe down with a damp cloth to remove blood and mud, and maybe an old toothbrush to clean gunk from the checkering. Anything else will just damage the delicate varnish that remains.
Other than the above suggestions, just use it and wipe it down with Clenzoil after each use until you're ready to have it refinished. JR
Be strong, be of good courage. God bless America, long live the Republic.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103 |
Try Formby's wax remover. Available at any big box hardware store. Very gentle so you won't run a risk of doing something you'll regret.
John McCain is my war hero.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 166
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 166 |
On my other guns, a parker, and 2 berettas I usually put a tiny bit of hoppes #9 on a silicone cloth and go over the stock very gently before storing. Is this something I wouldn't want to do to this gun?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103 |
First of all, NEVER let anything with silicone even close to a oil finished stock. Refinishing can be a nightmare if any of that stuff is in the wood. Its darned near impossible to remove. And it seems to me there's no benefit to rubbing it with Hoppes--though I use it for everything else, including curing the common cold.
John McCain is my war hero.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,158 Likes: 250
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,158 Likes: 250 |
The Brit traditional cleaner for oiled gun stocks is 1 part Turpentine 1 part Methylated Spirits (Denatured Alcohol) 1 part Vinegar. It does remove old hard wax and dirt without affecting the finish. Yes it does sound strange but it works well.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459 |
Turpentine and denatured alcohol are both solvents.Solvents break down and remove old varnish. Remember that.
Never use Hoppe's #9 on an old stock that has a linseed-based varnish, which they all had.It will soften and just further deteriorate it. JR
Last edited by John Roberts; 10/07/13 10:56 AM.
Be strong, be of good courage. God bless America, long live the Republic.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,270 Likes: 459 |
Be strong, be of good courage. God bless America, long live the Republic.
|
|
|
|
|