doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion German & Austrian Sporting Guns @ doublegunshop.com Source for Rings for Claw Mounts

rfrankhauser,
I stood shoulder to shoulder with Fred Schagelmilch(sp)in Walter Grass's shop and watched him mount many scopes, mounting a couple of my own with a really lot of help from him and Walter. We used new parts, but I will try to walk you through their process, but accounting for your parts as best I can.But first, I will answer your question about the rear base w/o screws.Yes,they are soldered on. Walter and Fred used soft solder paste(solder and flux mixed in paste form)and filled with wire solder if needed.The original rib had to be cut out,Fred used a small saw and a capeing chisel to reach the areas between the barrels.Once cut, the ribs were wired up with blocks to keep them from comming loose.Once the rib sections were removed(BTW don't forget to remove the rod that activates the rear sight)the bases were fitted by scraping and spotting( they used Prussian Blue mixed with common oil and a flux brush, but any spotting agent will work).The bases were soldered in(slider and springs removed from rear base),and "skim milled" on top surfaces, including dovetail,to make them parallel to the barrel flats.After this is where your work comes in.The plate is fitted to the hooks when it is delivered, but since they were forced together, sometimes a little bit of metal is rolled up on the side of the hooks, which is cleaned off with a scraper.The front ring is installed (to make it easier,assume split rings) and the scope is installed in the front ring(center and level the reticle) and boresighted with an adjustable block( a small steel block with a screw in the top)under the scope at the rear base, held together with a chord.Boresighting at a hundred yards or so, by adjusting the screw up or down will show the needed height of the rear ring, from the bottom of the scope to the top of the base.This height is transfered to the ring with a caliper or other convienent way, and the feet are are extended to this scribed line by milling(or fileing in your case).The needed length of the rear feet(foot, in your case)is found by measuring with a caliper, milled to length, and filed to fit the approximate contour of the barrels.Once it is fitted to the base,the feet are marked to locate the slot for the slider,by scribing a line through the slot in the base(at the bottom of the slot).The slot in the feet is milled with a specially shaped cutter(can be carefully done with saw and files), so that the scribe line remains(barely).Then the slider is fit to the feet as described before.Your drawing seems to show a wedge shape, unless you have already done it, don't file the slider to a wedge, make it more or less parallel, with a break on the leading edge to start it into the slot. It should be fit pretty"hard" to prevent "play".The rear of the feet are filed on an angle to provide a "cam" to move the slider backward when installing the scope.Then everything is polished,top of bases engraved, and blued. To make it simple, this description was for bases w/o windage, the differences for bases w/windage adjustment would be pretty much self evident. I know this is confusing, if you have a question, I or someone else will answer it.
Mike