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xausa:

I am unaware of anyone who regularly works on the 14/141 family of rifles. Perhaps one of the Remington collectors web sites (I'm not a member of any) might be able to help.

I try REALLY hard not to mess with the action on mine, except for cleaning it carefully. As a mechanic, I'm a hopeless klutz.

Buffalo Bore might still have the loaded ammo for the .32. Don't think it was a big seller from their inventory.

I'll look to see how much .30 Remington brass I have and whether I could let some go.

Steve:

You might also try Dan Pedersen. www.cutrifle.com

Rem

It sounds like the 'ejector plate' is missing from the bolt.
It may have bounced free of it's interlocking cut when the bolt was out of the recv'r.

Take the bolt back out of the rifle (I know, it's a pain but a learning experience too!)

Look at the left side of the bolt. That is where the 'ejector plate' sits in a milled out cut in the side of the bolt.
If there is a cut out there about an inch long or so, rounded end,,and the ejector rod stem itself is easily seen and can be manually pushed back and forth with your finger,,that's where the ejector plate is supposed to be. The ejector is held in place by the plate during use & can actually be simply pulled out the front of the bolt face w/o the plate in place. Part of the disassembly procedure

It's also part of the bolt lock.
If the plate is not there, the bolt will not unlock using the button on the right side of the bolt,,only if you (dry) fire the rifle will the bolt stop fall so you can open the action.

That's the first thing that comes to mind with the problems you mentioned. It's not uncommon for the plate to be missing as it is easily removed from the bolt w/o tools. It simply fits down into that cut in the bolt and slides under the milled tabs. Once the bolt is in the rifle, it can't come free. It's when the rifle is disassembled is where they go missing.

When reassembling the 14,,make sure the striker is cocked.
Also push the ejector forward from the back of the bolt with your thumb as you pull the slide bar back to engage the bolt to latch on to it. That pushes the bolt lock down manually and makes it much easier and smoother to link up the two parts.

Hope this helps.

Larry,
The bullets/tools to load for an 8x57mmI are available. Huntington's has the correct dies. Also they have .318 spritzers in 150-175-200 grains. They carry Norma brass new, it is .323 but using the RCBS .318 neck sizing die and a Lee Dead Length bullet seating die you can easily make them up.CH4D also makes the appropriate dies for this caliber. Hawk Bullets makes soft copper jacketed 180 grain and 220 grain bullets (round nose). You can normally pick up used 8mm casings cheaply at gun shows but you may need to resize the complete cartridge depending on what they have been fired through. I have an 8x57mmI that the proofs show was proofed for STmG & 14.6gr.(Steel jacketed 14.6 gr {about 220gr} bullet). It is a tack driver with the Hawk 220 grainers but terrible with the 180's. With the correct bullet you can use normal 8mm loading data but in the US this is generally on the light side. With the correct components it loads out to 30-06 levels.
Hope this helps,
Frank

Thanks, Jani and Rem...will be interesting to investigate the reboreing possibilities. I hesitate to call it reboreing because there is not enough metal to remove the old rifling and replace with new...the real challenge is to deepen the existing rifling, matching twist rate as well to the new .323 dia. AND, do the lands have to be squared off at the top? (Doubt it with only five thou removed.) Steve

Steve,
Anyway, it wouldn't be nearly as much fun, if it's made into a "regular ole .323".
Mike