RWTF,
xausa is correct that the screws are not set screws,but some only go half their diameter into the rail, instead of the full diameter.For both types,it's pretty "iffy" to drill the holes. I recommend you don't try it if you can avoid it,by adjusting the focus and learning to shoot it with your head at whatever position it takes to see through the scope. If you insist(after all,it will be your gun), be advised you will have to drill the rail through the base because the rail is tapered and the base helps keep the drill from "running".Also, the Germans use a small cutter,similar to an end mill, in a breast drill to cut a "square" seat for the drill to start in. There should be a "center" on the underside aligned with the drill,to keep the hole lined up.The drill should be about the minor diameter of the screw, so you don't wipe out the threads if you drill too far.Then you would have to run a tap through if the hole is full diameter. This is a lot of "scary" work to move the scope a fraction of an inch. Good luck.
Mike
Again- thanks- I can move my head, and am, luckily- right handed, right master eye- so the cheekpiece stock normally found on drillings is not a problem--no moving my "cheek-weld" position for eye relief with the Hensoldt vari-powered scopes. I am going back next week and pick out one of the 4 I looked over-- most likely the 12 gauge-- Wow- what a detailed analysis of the procedure used toodify that style of mounts on the claw mounts-- intrigued by the term "breast drill"-- is this like a brace and bit perhaps? In Roger Rule's great book on the Model 70's (pardon the digression here) in the dis-assembly section, they have a print of a gun mechanic removing the machine screws to dis-assemble the barrel & receiver group from the stock, the rifle is clamped into a padded vise, and he is using a brace and bit-- Of course, a breast drill could also be a "Dolly Parton" model, nice to have her in my shop for a day--bet she would work out great in the heat treatment area- hardening tools, etc!! RWTF
