Stan, the Stock Doctor is absolutely correct about using sawdust from lighter colored wood to get a good color match. I keep a large box of walnut scraps and broken gunstocks for patch repairs and find that the very light colored sap wood from just under the bark will turn as dark as heartwood when mixed with epoxy. Since CA cures in the presence of even a trace of moisture, and sawdust contains moisture, using epoxy for the mix will give you a much longer working time. I'd mix a small batch to experiment getting a good color match before using it on a gunstock and having to look at a repair that sticks out like a sore thumb. In fact, where a larger splinter is missing, it is much better to dig through your scrap box and cut a small piece of wood that has the same color, grain, and pore structure and glue in a slightly oversize piece carefully fitted, and dress it down after the glue sets. I often spend much more time choosing a matching scrap of wood than the time it takes for the actual repair. But it's worth it when you have to hunt for a repair you know is there, because you did it a couple years back, and it's so well matched and fitted that it's hard to find. That's also why I like the Titebond II better than epoxy when the wood is oil free. The glue joint is less obvious if closely fitted. As was pointed out, even epoxy will not bond well to slightly oiled wood, but it does better than Titebond II if there is a trace of oil. Polyurethane glue also makes a near invisible joint if you can keep it off the surface when it squeezes or foams out. That's a big if, and it will interfere with final staining and finish if you don't get it off. I don't know what to say about folks who use gobs of gray epoxy, nails, and baling wire on a gunstock.
