A subject near and dear to my heart. The type of wood in the stock, and more importantly, in the wrist would control just how much you dared to slim it down. Highly fiqured wood is never a good idea in the wrist on a handmade gun, but it can be better tolerated (ie. be less of a risk) in a drawbolt affixed stock situation. I've never tried to epoxy bed a drawbolt, but....I suppose it could work (getting the stock off ever again might be a challange). I had some significant stockwork done to a project gun (very early Model 12 in 16 bore) I recently acquired. It should have looked like Frankenstein's monster when it was done, but it doesn't (it pays to have highly competent friends!). The stockhead was repaired (it was either oil soacked or a poor replacement or both) and the drop was altered (from 3 plus at the heel to 2 1/2). This was done at the head, and by splicing on wood at the comb. The stock was also converted from mild pistol to straight. The final work on the stock was to thin it down to better fit the lines of the gun's action and install a period correct Hawkins pad (found as-new at a swap meet somewhere). The end result looks surprisingly good and has worked quite nicely so far. The only reason I/we even attempted this is that replacement stocks for Model 12s are fairly inexpensive and very easy to find. On a nicer gun, like an RBL or a Model 23 Win, I'd be more concerned about it. It is an alteration that would argueably affect the gun's resale value, even if it was done well. Save yourself the headaches and just buy a nice, plain, English boxlock. It won't have heavy mono-block barrels, and it will have already stood the tests of time. Good ones can be found in 12-bore down to 6 1/4 pounds, or less!
