|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
|
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,583
Posts546,717
Members14,425
| |
Most Online1,344
Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,632 Likes: 14
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,632 Likes: 14 |
some over-unders have that jeweling finish on the sides of the breech end of the barrel assembly. I recently had a Beretta where that was scuffed up and it would have looked better to have that dressed up. Some of the model 12's had the exposed side of the bolt dressed up that way.
I'm not sure how to do it but am thinking it might be done with a coarse ink or pencil eraser in a drill press and an x-y table. Just an idea. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Gil
[IMG]
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,539 Likes: 170
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,539 Likes: 170 |
Last edited by skeettx; 12/11/12 10:11 PM.
USAF RET 1971-95 ![[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]](http://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/57865_80x60.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850 |
I've experimented with jeweling on some scrap metal. I used rubber, like an eraser, in a drill press, with some rubbing compound for an abrasive. The rubbing compound was 1500 grit and didn't work very well. I think a coarser grit would have been better.
Practice safe eating. Always use a condiment.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
A "softer" material of rod shape carries abrasive while turned/rotated against a "harder" polished surface. So, a "rubber" rod works well as the "softer" material, adrill press is good for powering the rotation, and oil base abrasives do well as the "scratcher" material. The scratch circles must be overlapped in both directions. An X-Y table will make for very even spacing of the "swirls." Too fine an abrasive and the scratches are too small to see, too course and they don't look good. The level of polish also plays a role.
Cratex abrasive rods work reasonably well. There is considerable range of grit so you can experiment with the polish, metal hardness, and grit.
DDA
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34 |
Way back in the 60's, we did parts with an ink eraser in a drill press or a mill. The quality of erasers has probably changed since then.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
What's this "eraser?" Is that like a backspace or delete key?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31 |
I guess you guys cannot use the word 'rubber'  Last time I used a piece of aluminium round bar as the applicator and 'chemico' valve grinding paste as the abrasive
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18
Boxlock
|
|
Boxlock
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18 |
Try using a piece of wooden dowel or turned to size nylon rod to carry the abrasive.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 329
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 329 |
Personally, I prefer highly polished surfaces to jeweling.
Rob
NRA Benefactor Member
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850 |
I guess you guys cannot use the word 'rubber' Last time I used a piece of aluminium round bar as the applicator and 'chemico' valve grinding paste as the abrasive In these parts a rubber is a condom and I don't think a condom would work very well for jeweling. Getting back to the topic I think an eraser would conform better to a round surface like a rifle bolt.
Practice safe eating. Always use a condiment.
|
|
|
|
|
