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Joined: Dec 2008
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Originally Posted By: 2holer
PA24; odd you should mention the corrugated nail. Just finished this about an hour ago; heavy wire, legs included, imbedded in Acraglass with legs that go all the way through the wood.





Great....I always titanium or steel pin my stock repairs side to side and glass them, especially the L.C.'s and other side lock stocks....but also the Fox products etc.....makes a permanent repair that will out live any of us for sure......this stock had three hairline cracks on the right side.....







Doug



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Beautiful finish. Is it a Fox? My inletting cutouts are a little different shape.

These pins and glass are for prevention. Also painted the wood with super glue which turns the wood much darker.


Last edited by 2holer; 09/15/12 05:23 PM.
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2holer:

Yes, that gun above is a Fox Sterlingworth...1923.....12 ga....your inletting cutouts are different probably because your gun is a Savage built gun from 1937 if I read what you posted correctly.....Savage made many changes after they bought out Fox.....

Here's an LC that I stripped, pinned, glassed and refinished....I usually put three horizontal pins in each stock, one front, middle and rear....makes for a very firm combo.......1914 12 ga. Trap Grade. I cover the pinning holes with sawdust when the epoxy is still soft...then sand, stain etc. after curing.....








Doug



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Originally Posted By: PA24
2holer:

Yes, that gun above is a Fox Grade A from 1910 .....12 ga....your inletting cutouts are different probably because your gun is a Savage built gun from 1937 if I read what you posted correctly.....Savage made many changes after they bought out Fox.....

Here's an LC that I stripped, pinned, glassed and refinished....I usually put three horizontal pins in each stock, one front, middle and rear....makes for a very firm combo.......1914 12 ga. Trap Grade. I cover the pinning holes with sawdust when the epoxy is still soft...then sand, stain etc. after curing.....








Outstanding work. You should be pleased with yourself!!!

I'm struggling with a stock I was going to peg but that staple looks very interesting. That might be just the thing to solve one of my problems.

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Beautiful Elsie. Did you recut the checkering? What kind of stain to get the red tint?

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Originally Posted By: 2holer
Beautiful Elsie. Did you recut the checkering? What kind of stain to get the red tint?


*2holer:

No, I did not have the L.C. checkering recut on the one pictured above or the one pictured below ....the stain I use for all my stocks is MinWax #225 Red Mahogany.....it allows me to adjust the color up or down depending on the gun I am working on....I like that flexibility..........

On the old Sterlingworth stock above (customer's gun), I did have the checkering recut as requested.....

*Pooch:

Thank you...


Here's a Field Grade L.C., same process....





Doug



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Nice. That CC on the sideplate is rather unique in the pattern.

How would you go 'down' on the stain; rub it with min. spts.?

Last edited by 2holer; 09/16/12 02:06 PM.
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Originally Posted By: PA24
Originally Posted By: 2holer
Beautiful Elsie. Did you recut the checkering? What kind of stain to get the red tint?


*2holer:

No, I did not have the L.C. checkering recut on the one pictured above or the one pictured below ....the stain I use for all my stocks is MinWax #225 Red Mahogany.....it allows me to adjust the color up or down depending on the gun I am working on....I like that flexibility..........

On the old Fox A Grade stock above, I did have the checkering recut.....

*Pooch:

Thank you...


Here's a Field Grade L.C., same process....





Great work. I use the Minwax dark walnut quite a bit and also like their "gunstock" color. That red mahogany color looks great too.

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Here's a '22 16 I refinished using one part Birchwood Casey Rusty walnut and two parts BC Walnut. It is water based.



I assume the Minwax is oil based stain. If you get it too dark do you rub it with min. spts. to lighten?

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*2holer:

Your stock work looks very nice...!...

I had sent you a PM, but I guess you didn't see it...?.....With MinWax it is very easy to lighten the stained wood if you wish, or to darken with more stain if desired....I use acetone to lighten as needed.....Yes MinWax is an oil based stain....

I've been using MinWax for many years and like the finish and colors it produces.

*Mark, thanks, I have also used the 'Dark Walnut' stain that you mentioned above, especially on some older rifles which had that color.....after curing, I steel wool with 0000 and then add the final satin or gloss clear coat finish, whichever the customer or I want, depending on who's gun it is......of course the final carnuba waxing is intensive depending on the desired final finish....

Here's a few I did with different color variations as required.....As with all stains the color changes with the light conditions......i.e. indoor light vs. outdoor natural light, photo light and so on.........

Winchester 38-55...MinWax Red Mahogany....

Early Fox A Grade MinWax Red Mahogany.....

Top gun is a 16 Ga. L.C. with MinWax Dark Walnut....
Bottom gun is a 16 ga Sterly with MinWax Red Mahogany....

L.C. Smith 16 bore hammer gun with MinWax Red Mahogany....

Same 16 hammer gun, different light....


Doug



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