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Forums10
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Most Online9,918 Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
I have a sxs 12g Simpson-Suhl model of 1932 that I am trying to take apart. The action body screws are rusted in big time. I removed all the wood and safetys and such but the four main screws and the hammer screws will not budge the small lock screws came right out, no problem. Its soaking in Kroils now but nothing has helped so far. I have never had a problem like this before and I have been building antique guns for many years . I have met my match for sure  Does anyone know if screws are available for these guns or am I going to have to make them? Or does anyone have another idea on getting them out if nothing else I will set it up in the mill and drill them out. The gun is not to bad and the wood is really in excellent condition so I would like to save it if possible.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
Have you tried the drill press method? Put a screw driver (high quality that fits) in the chuck, apply enough down pressure that it can not cam out of the slot, turn the chuck. I can promise that something will move, won't promise what but it will move. I use a cross feed table to align it to perfection and hold it tight.
bill
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
Bill Done that, also ordered new thin blade screw driver bits for the ones that shattered. I use my mill to hold the action.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673 |
rgh25, we discuss this topic fairly often here because a lot of the guns we work on are old and may have been used in wet weather or neglected. If you use the search function here and do a search on "penetrating oil" or "frozen screws", you will find a ton of ideas and solutions. But the first recommendation I will make is to try something different than Kroil which has failed consistantly for me on really stubborn screws. If Kroil works, it probably wasn't all that frozen in my experience. Then I would advise great patience before resorting to brute force which will possibly ruin or break the screws, and before drilling them out. I've had numerous screws that resisted all efforts including various penetrating oils, heat, cold, vibration, etc., finally easily break free after several weeks or months of soaking. This is a good reason to have more than one project gun in the pipeline. You can move on to something else while frequently re-applying penetrating oil on your stubborn screw.
Voting for anti-gun Democrats is dumber than giving treats to a dog that shits on a Persian Rug
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,893 Likes: 651 |
Often several sharp taps with a hammer on a screw driver will break loose rust holding a screw. If a screw has had 80 years to get stuck a few weeks to break it free is not that much in the grand scheme of things. I have tried multiple penetrating oils and have had some work when others failed. No perfect oil out there.
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87 |
I hesitate to even ask this, as I am afraid I might get the same sort of ridicule as suggesting JB Weld could fix pits, but has anyone tried a DeWalt hammer drill or impact driver on a stubborn screw?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,720 Likes: 1357
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,720 Likes: 1357 |
Yes-but not gun screws. Leave them in the "tulebox" for rusted automotive fasteners. Or, corroded aircraft fasteners-you guys haven't lived if you haven't spent a day pulling carbon steel studs out of WWII vintage aluminum wing framework, or, even better, aluminum engine components. I've seen a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and ATF do wonders when a piston is stuck in the bore of a cylinder block, but, you leave the stuff in the bore on top of the offending piston, and don't really do much until you see some seepage past the rings. A swat with a rubber mallet every now and then. Not much else. That can take months. It stinks, too. Not sure how to use that formula on guns.
Best, Ted
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859 |
I used a tool similar to this for removing corroded-in-place phillips screws from outboard motors that have seen use in salt water. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Hand-Impact-Driver-Set-4JW91?Pid=search The thing to keep in mind is that at the exact same time the tool is attempting to turn the screw, the same impact is also driving the blade deep into the screw slot and jarring the corroded threads. It worked well on outboard motors, so may be useful as a last resort to remove stuck blade type screws from a gun. I do remember using it on phillips screws really saved the screw slots from becoming rounded out and useless. Steve
Last edited by Rockdoc; 09/04/12 07:49 AM.
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 709
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 709 |
In oil patch where we worked with monstrous bolts and nuts we would at times heat one and chill the other. I have often wondered if this would work in the small dimensions of a gun.
My solutions to tough screws on guns thus far has been to throw up my hands and send it out to someone else.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 284
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 284 |
Many years ago I read that the best soak was desicanted kerosene. I didnt keep the instructions on making it but I remember it involved heating salt in the oven. I believe the kerosene is added to a jar of the dried salt then poured off. Although the internet has been a great joy for finding information,Ive never found anything on this concoction.
h
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