Note that the Titebond I used was Titebond II which is a type 2 water resistant glue. I never tried Titebond type 1 glue. These results were mostly from tests I did several years ago in order to find which adhesives would give me the most invisible, yet strong glue joint for gunstock repairs. I cut and planed small blocks of walnut and matched them for color and grain. Where I was most successful in matching color, grain, and pore structure, the resulting joint was nearly undetectable even under close examination. I showed some of my best samples to friends who could not find the joint even though I assured them it was there. In addition, I tried various stock finishes such as Tung Oil, Linspeed, Laurel Mountain Permalyn, Varathane, Watco Danish Oil, Deft, Spar Varnish, Minwax Oil modified urethane, and several others to see if choice of finish either concealed or magnified the joint. Lastly, I put a lot of my pretty little finished samples in a vise and beat them with a large hammer to break them. Only the cheaper syringe type epoxy partially broke at the glue joint. In all others, the wood broke before the glue. Good enough!
