Hey Gazz,
I have welded many hammers. I have always TIG welded them with great success. Most times the hammeer tip is missing so I make a new tip from CRS and TIG weld it to the hammer using 70S3 filler wire. Usually I start by only partially shaping the missing part and weld it on. Leaving it a bit oversized and finishing it to the final shape after welding. Much easier than trying to align the part perfectly and then you have to file the weld anyway. Even when I get the broken part it is usually to mangled or to small to weld back on so I end up making new pieces anyway. I think once I saved a tip that was in good shape and had nice checkering on the tip. It worked but it was a tough job. I can't imagine that silver solder is any easier. It may work but it is not as strong as a full penetration weld. I have pictures on another computer of a set I did recently. If I think of it tomorrow I'll post them. Good luck.
Bill G.
FYI 70S3 AWS grade wire, whether spooled for MIG or in bare 36" lengths in various diameters is an excellent choice- 70,000 PSI tensile strength as stress relieved-- same as AWS 7018 SMAW "stick electrode" rod- and most mild steels have a tensile of 54,OOO to 56,OOO psi-- what makes this wire so special is that the S stands for silicone killed steel, so it flows well under the arc stream-- The only real difference between 70S3 spooled wire for MIG and straight lengths for TIG-- the MIG wire has a flash coating of copper, as MIG, like SMAW stick rod electrode welding, consumed the "electrode" in the arc pool, TIG the tungsten electrode is NOT a consumable, just the filler wire (fusion TIG welding the exception to that of course)-- I also agrre with using CRS AISI 1018 low carbon steel for hammer parts and firing pin tips, rather than D-2 or drill rod- all will work fine if the welder does it right--
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