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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,452 Likes: 278
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,452 Likes: 278 |
I have seen the Behlen's spray laquer recommended by more sources than just our friend Mr. Gaddy. I have not used it, yet.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
rgh25, what is the engraving and the planned use of the gun? For a coin finish on an all steel engraving gun meant for heavy use I like an electroless nickel finish. Very mar and corrosion resistant. Plating would cover over inlays. Sam It is a JP Sauer that is now a 12g rifled bore, I am cleaning up a little bit of discoloration and plan on darkening the existing engraving after polishing the receiver as was original on this gun. I have recut the checkering and once the ribs are re-enstalled blue the barrels. just not sure what to protect the finish. I am tending toward wax at this point but its still kinda-sorta open at this point.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,452 Likes: 278
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,452 Likes: 278 |
Behlen's Jet Spray Lacquer, high gloss.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
Behlen's Jet Spray Lacquer, high gloss. I found it on the Grizzly web site $6 for a can plus shipping and handling, looks like it has many uses.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 356 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 356 Likes: 4 |
Isn't there some way to chemically 'passivate' the polished surface? Maybe a phosphoric acid pickle, or something?
I have 3 older British boxlocks with an 'in-the-white' finish, and there does not appear to be any coating such as lacquer or wax on them. I suspect that they were originally case colored, but I can find no trace of any color left. Interestingly, they do not seem to be any more succeptable to tarnish, discoloration or rust than my case colored guns.
I would be very interested to find out what is (or was) done to them, if someone knows what how these guns may have been processed.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 19
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 19 |
A casehardened part will have plenty of thickness of the hard layer to polish the colors off and leave a uniform finish.
This surface is extremely hard and it is more resistant to rust than normalized steel surfaces.
My preference is for a bare coin finish with either wax or oil for protection.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,788 Likes: 673
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,788 Likes: 673 |
As Chuck H notes, a case hardened surface is more resistant to corrosion than an unhardened surface, even after the colors are long gone. Also, a highly polished surface is less apt to rust because it has a lot less surface area for moisture and oxygen to react with the steel. While phosphoric acid does leave a chemical coat that resists ferric oxide formation for a time, it will also etch the surface, and is very unattractive for use on guns. It is best left as a cleaner for steel that will be primed and painted.
Unless you plan on neglecting your gun, an occasional coat of good wax is probably all you need.
Voting for anti-gun Democrats is dumber than giving treats to a dog that shits on a Persian Rug
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