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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 64
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 64 |
I have been asked to repair the hammer on a rather nice old Belgian percussion shotgun. The spur has snapped off leaving a crystallized looking stub that makes me believe these parts were cast. In the past I have tried to gas weld them but have always had adhesion problems. If i make a new part and sliver solder it, it is usually good to go - strong enough to the job and not snap off. This guy wants the repair to be invisible which of course it would not be if it were silver soldered. Has anybody had any success with other methods of reattaching broken spurs? Can it be done with TIG welding?
The hammers are both nicely engraved and it would be difficult to find a replacement that matched, both in appearance and condition. Thanks for any responses!
Gazz
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118 |
I don't know about other makers, but L.C. Smith hammers are cast from steel. I mig welded one that had a broken tip. I did not have the other half and made one out of drill rod, heated and shaped it to look like the other side. After being welded I filed and touched it up with Oxpho Blue and filed the cross hatch tip.   This was for my own hammer gun, tried it a few times, and has held up, time will tell if it lasts.
David
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,136 Likes: 125
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,136 Likes: 125 |
for percussion hammers, silver solder has worked in the past...
keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 211
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 211 |
I had my Alex Herny rifle repaired and I couldn't tell. I can't find an after photo right now. A member of this board repaired it and case colored it after. Superb job. 
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118 |
I have to make a correction. I stated that I used drill rod for the new tip. I did on the first try, but the trouble with the drill rod, it hardened and became brittle at the joint and broke away after a few times. I then used cold roll steel and it seems to be holding better. Sorry for the bad information.
David
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 64
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 64 |
Thanks for the responses. I know I can do it with silver solder with only a minimal seam so I guess that is the way I will go. I also just noticed that the hammers do not match although are very close.
Gazz
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 692
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 692 |
Hey Gazz,
I have welded many hammers. I have always TIG welded them with great success. Most times the hammeer tip is missing so I make a new tip from CRS and TIG weld it to the hammer using 70S3 filler wire. Usually I start by only partially shaping the missing part and weld it on. Leaving it a bit oversized and finishing it to the final shape after welding. Much easier than trying to align the part perfectly and then you have to file the weld anyway. Even when I get the broken part it is usually to mangled or to small to weld back on so I end up making new pieces anyway. I think once I saved a tip that was in good shape and had nice checkering on the tip. It worked but it was a tough job. I can't imagine that silver solder is any easier. It may work but it is not as strong as a full penetration weld. I have pictures on another computer of a set I did recently. If I think of it tomorrow I'll post them. Good luck.
Bill G.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 70
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 70 |
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Hey Gazz,
I have welded many hammers. I have always TIG welded them with great success. Most times the hammeer tip is missing so I make a new tip from CRS and TIG weld it to the hammer using 70S3 filler wire. Usually I start by only partially shaping the missing part and weld it on. Leaving it a bit oversized and finishing it to the final shape after welding. Much easier than trying to align the part perfectly and then you have to file the weld anyway. Even when I get the broken part it is usually to mangled or to small to weld back on so I end up making new pieces anyway. I think once I saved a tip that was in good shape and had nice checkering on the tip. It worked but it was a tough job. I can't imagine that silver solder is any easier. It may work but it is not as strong as a full penetration weld. I have pictures on another computer of a set I did recently. If I think of it tomorrow I'll post them. Good luck.
Bill G. FYI 70S3 AWS grade wire, whether spooled for MIG or in bare 36" lengths in various diameters is an excellent choice- 70,000 PSI tensile strength as stress relieved-- same as AWS 7018 SMAW "stick electrode" rod- and most mild steels have a tensile of 54,OOO to 56,OOO psi-- what makes this wire so special is that the S stands for silicone killed steel, so it flows well under the arc stream-- The only real difference between 70S3 spooled wire for MIG and straight lengths for TIG-- the MIG wire has a flash coating of copper, as MIG, like SMAW stick rod electrode welding, consumed the "electrode" in the arc pool, TIG the tungsten electrode is NOT a consumable, just the filler wire (fusion TIG welding the exception to that of course)-- I also agrre with using CRS AISI 1018 low carbon steel for hammer parts and firing pin tips, rather than D-2 or drill rod- all will work fine if the welder does it right--
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,696 Likes: 226
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,696 Likes: 226 |
Shane T,
Great job
AND
I like the screw vice also
Mike
USAF RET 1971-95 ![[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]](http://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/57865_80x60.jpg)
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