doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com W&C Scott 8 bore questions

Just before the WC Scott factory closed I was lucky enough to go round it. A very knowledgeable gentleman named Pat Whatley took us round - I believe he is co author of the book mentioned previously. I don't know how to contact him - or if he is still alive - but he has a wealth of knowledge and I think some of the records. I am sure that someone in the Birmingham gun trade or perhaps Bill Harding at the Proof House museum may have knowledge of his whereabouts.
John

I make 8 bore ammo from Remington Industrial cases. You will need to re-size the step in the head and a roll crimper to finish off. Chamber lengths for 8 bores were 3 1/4", 3 1/2" 3 3/4" 4" and 4 1/2" there was also a chamberless 8 for thin brass cases. The Industrials are 3 1/4" which can be used in any chamber. 10 to 1 your gun will only be proofed for black powder. Have the barrels checked to make sure that they are still o.k. Don't worry about using black as this gives excellent patterns. Card and felt wads also. Plastic can be obtained but are not suitable for black unless you don't mind wire brushing melted plastic stuck to the inside of the bore. Black burns hotter than nitro. Lagopus.....

Skeetx
thanks for the complete reloading supply rundown.

I took some pictures of the gun. just have to figure how to post.

The 3 1/2 is probably a proof pressure mark, but it could be chamber length. Obsessed with Doubles offered to post your pictures in a previous post.

I have an extra 8 bore roll crimper (for the drill press)from
Ballistic products if you need it.

l.stallones@centurytel.net

Here are the pics Yank sent me:







OWD

There is still color on the trigger guard. Exactly how much color remains on that gun? It even has good checkering on the forend. That is one outrageous eight gauge. We would enjoy more pictures. Bill Murphy

Yank:
That wedge looks bloody well full out -- but it's held in by a tiny pin that runs vertically down through the slot which can't be got at easily from the outside. Try this if you haven't already:

Push the forearm back toward the action as you pull the forearm tip outward.

Push it forward as you try the same maneuver.

Also... Try sliding a small well fitting screw driver into the wedge slot that is open and get a bit more leverage to pull away from the barrels. But go GENTLY on this bit. If it still won't come off, see a good smith. You don't want to damage that forearm.

I suspect a burr on the iron or a bent loop is hanging things up.

I got it apart.
It was welded together with closet crud, gelled oil/grease and kind of a varnish. actually the whole action is covered with a kind of varnishy crud.
i will have my new friend Gregg post some pictures of the barrel markings. the frame has little castles with flags stamped on it.
Its all gobbledegook to me as I am used to Parkers only.