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#2751 09/24/06 01:36 AM
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I have several questions, all about Brownings, that I'm sure the experts here can easily answer.

1. I have a Belgian Sweet Sixteen A-5 (I know its not a double, sorry) that I had redone by Browning. It came back beautiful. It looks new cosmetically to my unprofessional eye. How is the condition of this gun now expressed? I usually see percentages used, or is there another term used for "redone" guns?

2. I have a Citori SN 19058PZ163. I guess that makes it a 1981 20 ga. Grade 1 Hunter. Mine has 26" IC/M, and a straight English stock (SES). The Gun Value book I have seems to make a point of mentioning when a model is available in pistol grip and/ or SES, but doesn't mention the SES for the Grade I Hunter. Is the SES on mine noteworthy?

3. The bluing on the gun looks excellent and is very uniform, but it seems to have a reddish or brownish tint. Is that normal or bad?

4. Would having Invector (or other) chokes installed in this fairly mundane Citori devalue it? (Not sure I need anything other than IC/M on it anyway, but just thinking....)
Thanks

#2752 09/24/06 08:37 AM
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hookdown: Others will no doubt add their thoughts, but I'll take a stab at at number one. Collectible guns of all kinds are usually described in part by the percentage of original finish remaining. In the case of your restoration, you could describe your gun as "100% of factory refinish." (Of course, if only the wood, or only the metal, have been refinished, you can't call it 100%, but will need to be more specific, and as the gun wears, you need to describe the amount of the refinish that remains ... 95% or whatever.) When accurate, it's wise to include words like "professional" or "like new" regarding restoration work, because some work just isn't, and the gun never looks "right." Most of us here would consider a poorly done refinish as much worse than leaving the gun as-is. On this part, everyone has different opinions, but I usually value a perfectly refinished and reworked gun at about 90% of its value if it were perfect and all original. A gun that's been refinished has almost certainly seen a lot of hard use, and wear to interior parts as well as exterior finishes, which is why a "like new" refinished gun is not the same, and should not be priced the same, as a truly new gun. TT


"The very acme of duck shooting is a big 10, taking ducks in pass shooting only." - Charles Askins
#2753 09/24/06 08:52 AM
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hookdown, I doubt the screw-choke investment would be regained in a sale of your Citori. It wouldn't lower the value, just hard to get your $500ish back. Blueing turning to plum is not uncommon in older guns, a bit surprising on a 25 year old (but you may have a lot of miles on the gun).

If future sale of the A-5 is possible, keep your reciept from Browning for the refinish.

#2754 09/24/06 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hookdown:
1. I have a Belgian Sweet Sixteen A-5 (I know its not a double, sorry) that I had redone by Browning. It came back beautiful. It looks new cosmetically to my unprofessional eye. How is the condition of this gun now expressed? I usually see percentages used, or is there another term used for "redone" guns?
Since the gun has been used and redone, you can't honestly sell it as NIB. However, if it hasn't been shot since you got it back, and it was done by Browning, your value stays in the 98-99% or LNIB. On a Sweet Sixteen, if it has a vent rib and it's Belgium made, you can expect a pretty penny. In the $1K - $1.5K range from what I have seen.

Quote:
Originally posted by hookdown:
2. I have a Citori SN 19058PZ163. I guess that makes it a 1981 20 ga. Grade 1 Hunter. Mine has 26" IC/M, and a straight English stock (SES). The Gun Value book I have seems to make a point of mentioning when a model is available in pistol grip and/ or SES, but doesn't mention the SES for the Grade I Hunter. Is the SES on mine noteworthy?
It may be marginally more attractive on the market over a pistol grip Citori, but not much. Maybe an extra $50-$100. There are a lot of newer Citori guns that have the SES, are lightweight, and can shoot steel with choke tubes so there isn't as much a market for the fix choked guns. Regardless of the stock configuration.

Quote:
Originally posted by hookdown:
3. The bluing on the gun looks excellent and is very uniform, but it seems to have a reddish or brownish tint. Is that normal or bad?
They typically call that a Patina color. And while not necessary bad if the bluing is in good shape, it does show that the bluing is starting to "fade" a little. This is very typical on Brownings over 20-25 years old.

Quote:
Originally posted by hookdown:
4. Would having Invector (or other) chokes installed in this fairly mundane Citori devalue it? (Not sure I need anything other than IC/M on it anyway, but just thinking....)
Thanks
Personally I don't think it would be worth the trouble. A 20 gauge with a straight stock is typically an upland game gun. The chokes you have, M/IC are perfect for pheasant, grouse, quail, etc. Maybe a little tight for dove but that's about it. If you really needed to choke the gun differently, I would look for a used Citori with choke tubes in it. It will cost you a little more but it would also be steel shot compatible.

Hope this helps a little.


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