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#266836 02/21/12 04:23 PM
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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I've been trying to teach myself to hand cut dovetails in wood and have been looking my straight chisels over.

Over the years with a lot of sharpening they have lost the hollow ground. Do you guys restore (or not remove) the hollow grind?

I do not have one of those roller things for chisels or plane blades just have always done it free hand. Do I need one?


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Sidelock
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This is what I use - it will not hollow grind and I don't feel that is important in the slightest.

This may not be the best in an absolute sense but it is so easy and fast that my tools are much sharper all the time as a result. It is quite affordable too.

http://www.acmetools.com/tools/WORK+SHAR...+Slotted+Wheel.


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Sidelock
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Let's try this link instead
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1_____enUS409US409&q=work+sharp&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1430&bih=1166&ion=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=18003123794046016764&sa=X&ei=XQhET9HaF8Thggeex92WCA&sqi=2&ved=0CKsBEPMCMAg


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Sidelock
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Okay, this is getting irritating but I'm going to win yet
http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3000-Wood-Sharpener/dp/B000PVHIMW


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
=>/

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Sidelock
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Having made my living by cutting a ton of dovetails, my method is to use diamond stones and either free-hand the bevel or use one of those 'roller things'. I personally don't feel a hollow grind is necessary. No two woodworkers do it the same way it seems, so differing opinions abound. First make sure the back of the chisel is flat by rubbing it on the stone, then proceed with sharpening. The only other advice I would offer is that when using them don't let them get so dull that you have to go through the whole schmear again. When it starts to lose its edge, stop and hone it. Chopping dovetails will dull it quicker than by using it to pare.

I have one of those grinding machines, but I only use it to restore a nicked or otherwise destroyed edge. Then its back to the stones.

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Sidelock
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Michael Dunbar,chairmaker, uses a piece of plate glass with adhesive backed abrasive to sharpen and it works like a charm. Check out "Fine Woodworking's" index on line.

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Sidelock
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FWIW, the tool I posted uses various grades of adhesive backed abrasives on glass plates. Mine are set up as fine a 2000 grit just to be foolish I guess. The jig for holding chisels at a set angle below the plate is the big advantage for straight edge cutters like chisels and plane blades.


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
=>/

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Sidelock
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Part of what a hollow grind can give you is that you're only sharpening or touch up honing a little bit at the edge. You can get a similar result by making a secondary bevel, or lift the handle a bit and make a tiny less acute bevel at the tip. I think the edge lasts a little longer and is quicker to touch up. Have fun with it.

Last edited by craigd; 02/21/12 05:59 PM.
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Sidelock
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On the topic of chisels, can any recommend a brand of chisels for stock inletting? I've been reading Linden's "Restocking a rifle" and its got me interested in giving it a try. Has anyone else here used this book as a guide? Any advice?

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Sidelock
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SDH where are you?

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