Parts that would've been blacked:
Top Lever
Floor plate (on some guns, others would've been case colored)
Trigger guard tang & screws
Some makers blacked forend escutcheons while other case colored them.
Safety button
Charcoal bluing is labor intensive (preperation, polish, etc) and offers no real advantage over hot bluing salts offered today. Makers who do blacking over here will tell you that the key to obtaining the right shade or "proper" shade of "black" is to change the salts often and the amount of polishing done to the metal. A local rifle maker, D'arcy Echols conducted a test on different types of blacking. He put small bits of blacked metal, all done in various ways (rust blued, charcoal, hot salt, nitre, etc) and tumbled them. The hot salt blacked finish proved to be much more durable than the others, so this is the finish he puts on his custom rifles, if anyone has seen a D'arcy Echols rifle, you know D'arcy knows wtf he's doing.
In regards to barrel blacking, I don't know where the myth that the proper finish for Brit gun barrels is a "satin, velvety black". I read that for years from various authors. I find that false. Most Brit barrels, especially higher grade guns have highly polished barrels & shiny black finish. Look at barrels finished by Johnsons for example.
I've had a few guns restored over the years and have had all types of finishes recreated. From now on, the small bits get hot blued, but I'm very picky on who I send these parts to to get the treatment. Blackers that change their salts often and know exactly the appropriate amount of polish to apply to the metal get my business. I've got names if you need them.
Dustin
Last edited by LeFusil; 12/14/11 01:34 PM.
