doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com rust blueing help

I agree with chopperlump and Jim on all the basics. However, I have found if you go beyond 320 it causes it to be shinier than the originals. I have used the Baker solution and method on several doubles and Single shots and
they have turned out well.

Thank you all very much, I appreciate the detailed replies--it's a huge help.

Now off for more sanding...

I don't know what orginals you mean, but a good rust blue will never be glossy, nor will it be rough unless you deliberately make it that way. 320 is way to course to look right in my opinion. A good winchester type bluing can be had w/o any risk fo the dreaded gloss - but go finer than 320, and probably finer than 400.

Brent

The Double Gun Journal has a number of excelllent articles authored by Oscar Gaddy, considered by many as the foremost authority on restoration, whether rust bluing, case coloring, or damascas restoration. They will sell you reprints for a reasonable cost, and the data is priceless. He includes recepies for rusting solutions as well. I use his formulations in my restorations, and my clients have been very happy with the results. raltenhof

320-360 is the most needed any more is wasted labor. (sorry to say) the rust bluing will work best and fastest at this grit. Higher will just result the same with wasted labor.

Ken,
That just flat out ain't true. Been there done that.

Brent

BrentD,
I have to agree with Ken.
It is very dificult to start rusting when the metal is polished to much.
I have done rust blueing for over 25 years.

Casey

Casey, Like I've said, I've been there and done that as have many many others. I rust blue them to different degrees of luster for different types of rifles. I've seen some done to an even higher gloss than any I have done.

If you look at lot of english double shotguns, damascus in particular, you will see many that have a much higher degree of polish than 320 grit. In fact, some are better than 600.

Brent

Brent, I can only tell you what I do.
I was bluing a reciver for M42 Winchester
The customer did the prep job that included
very high polish.
It took me more than a week to get the blueing done, and I was not to happy with the results.
But He did like it.
The next one I did I used a 360 grit Scotch pad, and went over His polished job and this time
in 3 days i had the finish that He told me he almost wet his pants over it.
Casey

Casey, might be your method. If you get a customer that wants a fine finish, you need to start very slowly. With a just barely damp applicator rubbed on repeatedly.

I did a Ballard .22 with a new Douglas barrel that I had polished to 1000 grit this way. It did not finish with the same 1000 grit polish, but it was easily 600 grit equivalent, maybe better than that. The trick is to start slow. It will be very very even. I don't even use a humidity box. You may also be using a reagent that is just to aggressive.

Jim Westberg up in MSP showed me a Rigby Ballard he has built for a customer. He has a barrel that is easily the equal of 800 grit. It has a beautiful deep luster that just won't stop. I think he used Mark Lee's product but I can't be sure. Jim does beautiful work.

Brent