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Sidelock
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Must be tough for some to be an imperfect human, yet expect such perfection from their material things.
Steve


Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Birdshooter, Trevallion(sp) told me about the hooves.

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Sidelock
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Good looking gun. The wood is fantastic. Speaking for myself, I'm not a big fan of the extreme marblecake a lot of other folks go for. I go in for some nice fiddleback figure or similar, or just a nice rich color. De gustibus .... But this honey and smoke is exceptionally nice and something I have to look into.

As to filling pores, using ground horse hooves is a new one to me. I suppose the hooves, being keratin and therefore likely having a flaky (mica-like) structure even when ground fine, would enhance the natural color and highlights in the wood. A friend who does high-end cabinetry and restoration uses very finely powdered pumice to fill pores when French polishing - comes in handy with more porous woods like mahogany.

Interesting.


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Sidelock
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Never heard of using powdered pumice to fill wood pores....I have used it to polish the surface during the finishing process.

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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: HomelessjOe
Never heard of using powdered pumice to fill wood pores....I have used it to polish the surface during the finishing process.


Read:

http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=French_polish&action=edit&section=2

Quote:
The process is lengthy and very repetitive. There are also many similar variations in schedule and technique. What is described here is one such schedule. The finish is obtained through a specific combination of different rubbing motions (generally circles and figure-eights), waiting for considerable time, building up layers of polish and then spiriting off any streaks left in the surface.

The pad is first used to put a thinned coat of shellac on, then thicker coats with small amounts of superfine pumice, a crushed volcanic glass. The pumice acts both as a fine abrasive and to fill the pores of open-grain woods. Each coat must be fully dry before the next application, to avoid lifting out the softened finish.


It's seriously arcane, time-consuming, labor-intensive and gives the worker forearms like Popeye. It also yields an amazing result. The pumice is key when working with woods like mahogany, where more open grain comes along regularly.


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Sidelock
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I personally, would take that finish on all my shotguns!!!
Beautiful!!!


Dodging lions and wasting time.....
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Tony, what name do the Brits have for the type of border on this checkering?

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The pores of the wood fill with oil as you go through the rubbing off stage. Roten stone helps with this. One of the reasons it takes along time and the finish needs cutting back all the time before it is done. You can use a grain filler as a shortcut if you wish.

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Sidelock
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I'm with Digs on this one. I aim to completely fill the grain on my stock guns with oil mixture alone. It takes about 30-40 daily coats, flatted off every 6 coats with very fine wet & dry, last 2 rub downs with fine pumice and then rottenstone. Not for the impatient!
If one does the flatting off thoroughly, you finish off with only a oil sheen on the wood surface but total in-fill of the grain.
This method will also fill in small dents and scratches.
The oil in the pores appears to unite with the oil that has soaked into the wood and bonds quite strongly. Problem with using grain fillers is that under some conditions they can literally lift out especially is tape of any sort is placed on the stock.
I remember seeing a Purdey that had been finished using grain filler. When sent off for the oval to be engraved, masking tape was placed round the oval to 'protect' the finish. When it was pealed off it took the grain fillings with it. Much profanity followed!

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At such a high application rate I don't see how you could ever expect the finish to cure.

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