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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173 |
If it's like mine it's on big steel wheels about 6"-8" in diameter. Only danger there might be from bad flooding.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,399 Likes: 15
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,399 Likes: 15 |
Wood is not a moisture resistant material. Perhaps a synthetic material would be better?
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,437 Likes: 34 |
Some of my non-fire-rated safes seem to have been lined with drywall and then carpeted.
On a concrete floor, I would use composite lumber (resin and wood fiber) or something like Azek Trim Boards (100% plastic) as spacers under the safe. Regular wood 2x4's will wick moisture and may allow the bottom of the safe to rust.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173 |
Moisture just isn't going to be a problem with it. Mine isn't even in a heated area, and is on a concrete floor. I built a plywood cabinet around and over it just to disguise it from strangers who may drop by, but the wheels are directly on the concrete floor. I have seen water dripping off the safe itself from the humidity during the winter and opened it and the interior would always be warm and dry.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Get the browning (or other make) dehumidifier then you will be sure.
Cheers
T
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,498 Likes: 396
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,498 Likes: 396 |
Thanks for all your comments.
The safe already has what I call stumps of about two inches in length that keep it off the ground. It looks like there were wheels once and, having had to move it a couple times so far, I WILL be adding wheels. I need a hydraulic car jack just to move each door!
Replacement, my other safe, a gun safe from Cabela's, has been lined with drywall and a carpet like material. I suspect very similar to yours.
Stan, I now live on a hilltop. My previous location was on the floodplain of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers, both of which have a habit of spilling their banks and causing havoc in North Dakota and Manitoba.
Walter, I appreciate that. I am trying for a balance between esthetics and purposefullness.
Tony, it will have every dehumidifying system known to gun collectors. LOL! BTW Tony, I would like to add my voice to the chorus of well wishers on this BB. May you continue to exasperate the wife with your gun obsession for many decades to come. Please continue educating and entertaining us with your posts.
In my last house I had the safe in the basement. I believe that location was in a large measure, the cause of my concern about humidity. The past two years it has been located on the ground floor and the humidity has been much easier to manage despite moving to a more humid climate.
Also I no longer have a wife so I can decorate the house the way I want. Haha!
Regards,
James
The world cries out for such: he is needed & needed badly- the man who can carry a message to Garcia
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,201 Likes: 1173 |
Sounds like you've got it workin', James. Yours look anything like this?  Doors are 6.25" thick  With some guns removed so you can see the carpeted interior better. Anything with barrel(s) over 32" and long LOP has to leaned cattywhonkereds.  SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Thanks for the note Canvas. Appreciate it.
T
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,498 Likes: 396
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,498 Likes: 396 |
Here are a couple of picture of the safe I am about to go to work on. I have been using it to store shells and other misc. Walls and doors are five inches thick. I have also included a shot of the walnut rack I made for my Cabelas safe as I hated the racking that came with it. The rack is two rows deep, holds 16 SxS and 4 O/U, rifles or single barrels. I did it years ago before I understood I should be storing the guns muzzle down. Will be creating similar racking for the "to be re-furbished" safe (muzzle down this time!) and, although I haven't done the specific measurements yet, will end up with storage for between 30 and 40 guns. Think I will make that one exclusive for SxS's and redo the other safe rack for my O/U, single barrels and rifles. While the fuzzy microfibre lining on the Cabelas safe is functional, I think that for not much more work I can make a really great looking wooden cabinet-like interior. Just one more example of the double gun affliction. Making the inside of my safe look great.....when I'm the only one who ever gets a look inside! LOL   
The world cries out for such: he is needed & needed badly- the man who can carry a message to Garcia
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,850 |
I did exactly what you're planning about 8-9 years ago. I was given a big (5200# I was told) Mosler Safe that was once the business safe for a Chevrolet dealership here. I had to hire a roll back car hauler to move it for me.
Anyway, I stripped all the old wooden shelves and pigeon holes out of it an cleaned the interior good, then cut a tight nap carpet and glued it to all interior surfaces with 3M spray adhesive. Before doing so I drilled a 3/8" hole through the floor, in a corner, with an extra long HSS drill bit. It went through the inner floor, insulating material (it looked like a mixture of concrete and asbestos?) and the outside floor with ease, probably about 9 inches total thickness. I ran the cord for a large Goldenrod through the hole and put the plug on the end outside. I didn't bother building any racks or shelves, not wanting to take up any space. I just lean the guns up against the walls and haven't had any problem. I find I can squeeze more in there by not having any racks or shelves. You may rather have them, however.
The carpet has worked great and everything stays warm, dry and toasty from the heat off the Goldenrod. This is Georgia, and extremely humid, commonly running in the mid 90% level all summer. You could use the 3M adhesive, or some other construction adhesive like Liquid Nails to put paneling in it, but I prefer the carpet.
Good luck, Stan Stan and all you guys with old antique safes. Last year I talked with a safe man about my antique safe. I complained to him about how the inside always smelled of mildew. He asked me how thick the walls were. I told him about a foot thick. He then told me that this was an old bank safe and the interior was a moisture impregnated concrete lining. The reason for it was in case of a fire the concrete would give off moisture to further protect the contents of the vault. Consequently my vault will always stink. He also asked me if the doors had a felt lining in a groove close to the edges. I told him yes. He then said that this was to prevent a safe cracker from using nitro to blow the doors off. The felt would wick up the nitro and expand thus sealing it keeping the nitro from going all the way around the doors. The only way I would keep a gun in there is if it was vacuum sealed in heavy plastic. I now have a 4000 lb. paper weight sitting and stinking in the corner of my garage. J.R.B. jerb
Practice safe eating. Always use a condiment.
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