doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Help!!!- Sticky recoil pads.......

I was surprised to find your post was not about Kickeez pads. I have found them to be very sticky. I use Decelerators on all my guns and have never considered them to be sticky at all. I shoot low gun on everything except trap. I have used several SC100 pads but do not find the Old English style to be sticky so I don't spend the extra money for the SC100. You use Barge Cement or other high quality contact cement to attach a sole of leather to the face of the pad slightly going around the curved edges. Not as pretty as a completely leather covered pad but much cheaper and easy to do-it-yourself.

I used to hate sticky pads like the Kickeez on a target gun. After I acquired a couple of strait grip doubles and learned to mount them, I found myself adding a strip of Velcro loop to the checkered butts. Actually sticks tight to the straps of a suspension vest. Now ain't that hilarious? If you're sliding the gun up your chest, the muzzles are probably seesawing; not an efficient way to get on the target track.

jack

Clear finger-nail polish is an inexpensive and quick way to slick a pad's surface and it is easily removed, but don't get too carried away with the solvent removing the polish as it would likely have an effect on the stock finish.

ArmorAll works pretty well on pads that are a bit sticky. It's not so much a problem when you're shooting clay targets (even low gun) because you have time to think about what you're doing, know when the target's coming, where it's coming from, etc. However, when you're hunting, it's a different story. A surprise flush can result in less than perfect mounting technique--like one leg over a log when a grouse blows out. And in such situations, one may snag a pad on one's coat or vest. Better if it slides a bit. But once you've got the gun mounted, even a slicker pad isn't likely to slide around much. But on the pads that don't have the hard insert at the top (which are tapered just a bit to start with), some people will remove a little material to add a bit of taper, which helps prevent the top edge from snagging.

Yep, LB"s got a good suggestion with Armour All. It'll slick it up enough to make a difference but won't shine or crack. Eventually it'll have to be reapplied.

A few old English methods: the classic Silvers pads were glazed with a very hot blade which just melts the surface, tricky if you are not experienced.
The other way is to apply one of a variety of varnish. Best in my experience is proprietory french polish which you apply in a few light coats. It does wear off but you can just slap on another coat or two. Also it can be removed very easily with a little solvent.
Acrilic varnish works well but make sure you have a flexible one or it will just crack and flake off.